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now, how to remove THIS?


pigdog

Question

Trying to change the coolant hoses which looked all bad on the outside, but after cutting them off they seemed brand new inside. So I just discovered I have made more work for myself than needed. How do I get the downtube from the Thermostat to the water pump off? I assume I remove that to get the replacement hose on then reattach it?

Is there also a way of attaching the hose from the WP to the rad bottom without taking off the whole back end and rad of the ferret??

I think I should have left everything alone. :mad:

-Chris

Ferret 2/3 00 EC 55

119-1967_IMG..jpg

119-1968_IMG..JPG

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firstly, you were right to replace the hoses, so don't be kicking yourself, I replaced all my militant hoses, and sod's law was that all the hard to reach ones were better than I'd expected, but they're done now.

 

Looking at your pics, it seems that the hoses were fitted with parts removed, particularly that bottom hose - the gaps are so close you'd not get a hose on any other way I doubt?

 

If it were me, I'd be looking at removing parts fitting the hose and then rebuilding, but then again I'm no expert and have no experience of ferrets.

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How do I get the downtube from the Thermostat to the water pump off?

 

Just gently tap a screwdriver blade one end of the mounting then the opposite end to break the seal formed by the squashed gasket & possibly sealant in there as well. Then tap the mounting from side to side with a rubber or hide hammer.

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standing by to be corrected but sure ive read somewhere that bottom hoses can only be got at when rear armour off and poss fan out also looks like you have a servo fitted like mine if u can undo the mounting bolts the flex hoses are quite long and u might be able to lift it out of the way without disconnecting the flex hoses u might have to un bolt oil cooler as well.

Edited by griff66
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right some info go to ,,ferret -afv.org. site scroll half way down lots of gen, look for cooling system tips as thought bott two hoses have to have rear deck off and rear skid plate the site is well worth a look for other bits and bobs as well!!:cool2:

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Ive been to the Ferret site and thats where I read its an... "easy job". I guess I wanted to know is it possible to leave the bottom 2 hoses (the drain plug and bottom rad) alone and replace the one next to the pulley WP without removing the rear hull?

I didnt realize that the pipes on the ferret are so close to each other. I thought it was more like a car where theres a big gap between pipes so you can attach the hoses without pulling everything apart.

If I disconnect the the cylinder block drain valve pipe at the bottom, will that allow enough flex to be able to get a hose on?

Thanks-Chris

coolin3..jpg

Edited by pigdog
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To replace the bottom hoses you have to remove the skid plate and the grill above the radiator. The deck can stay on you will have to unlock the rear deck from the grill above the radiator.

 

Be careful with the skid plate its heavy and awkward but can be lifted by one person. Check the length of the wire attaching the convoy light and the number plate light to the skid plate; remove the connections if you think they might get in the way. Have some wood on the floor to drop the plate onto.

 

If unsure use an engine lifter (remove the number plate light) and remember it tends to hook on at the very top of the vertical area of the skid plate and swing towards you when its removed. If you leave the bolts in place where it goes from vertical to an angle you can safely remove the bolts in the area where the starting handle hole protrudes out of the skid plate. I know this is obvious but it doesn't hurt to write it.

 

Use you're leg/knee (with an arched foot) to support the skid plate and leave the bolts in place where the skid plate goes from vertical to an angle and remove the other four leaving just the ones at the angle. The vee shape of the hull tends to hold the skid plate in place at the very top so now’s the time to remove those last two bolts. With you’re knee still holding the plate up relax you’re foot and let the plate drop towards you and get a good firm hold and remove the plate.

 

When you remove the radiator make sure that you have somewhere to put it as it’s a heavy lump.

 

Remove the radiator back flush it and then refit using the weight of the radiator (its heavy) to push the bottom connection onto the hose. When the bottom hose is on the top hose will want to connect to the top hose, have a screw driver ready to tighten the jubilee clips onto the top hose. This anchors the radiator on so that you can tighten the bottom hoses up.

 

I've removed the radiator side mounts before now to refit the hose as I've found it easier to jiggle the radiator with those out of the way.

 

If you can't get the skid plate and the grill back on jack up the Ferret in-between the rear wheel stations, the weight of wheel stations tends to splay the hull apart. This also works for the hull tube between the wheel stations.

Edited by ferrettkitt
removed some of the text
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Andy,

Thanks for the tips. I was able to get the rear plate off last night and will attempt to put some hoses on today. A note to others is that the thermostat part is aluminum so be VERY careful getting it off. I didnt know that.

Question: Can the thermostat be removed without the special extractor tool? I have a new thermostat just in cause.

Thanks-Chris

119-1969_IMG..jpg

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I'm reviving an old thread here :cool2: because I'm also planing to do a radiator/cooling system flush & hose replacement on my ferret in the near future.

 

Thanks for the posts w/great info! Noticed that in the pics & diagram posted that the rubber rad. hoses appear to be just short sections of straight hose. So I won't have to source old, odd shaped hoses?. I can use generic radiator hose trimed to fit?

 

Regards,

Matt

Edited by WCMatt
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