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WW1 Thornycroft restoration


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Funnily enough I ordered some Press-n-Peel about an hour before I saw this thread, for making some patent plates.

 

A search of Ebay UK for "press-n-peel" (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=press-n-peel&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_trksid=p2045573.m1684) suggests you can buy a single sheet for about £5 from the UK, or get 5 sheets for under £10 shipped from Canada.

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img03266.jpgHI have enjoyed your posts I have got a lot out of it as a lot applies to ours a q with the bb/4 one different thing is ours has a capstan winch on the right rear wheel main things we are missing are a radiator and reverse gear two pics one of the winch and another of unloading her back in 77 thanks bj

07052012927.jpg

07052012926.jpg

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]105154[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]105155[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]105156[/ATTACH]HI have enjoyed your posts I have got a lot out of it as a lot applies to ours a q with the bb/4 one different thing is ours has a capstan winch on the right rear wheel main things we are missing are a radiator and reverse gear two pics one of the winch and another of unloading her back in 77 thanks bj

 

The model Q is a rare machine. I have seen photos of a few that were imported into NZ, but only know of one remaining, but that comprises only as the front and rear axles with wheels. The Q had a totally different spoke pattern, giving a star shape to the casting.

Not aware of any in the UK from Thornycroft Register listings.

Can you post a few more photos of your project.

Doug

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Funnily enough I ordered some Press-n-Peel about an hour before I saw this thread, for making some patent plates.

 

A search of Ebay UK for "press-n-peel" (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=press-n-peel&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_trksid=p2045573.m1684) suggests you can buy a single sheet for about £5 from the UK, or get 5 sheets for under £10 shipped from Canada.

 

Hi,

My first (other than introduction) post. I've followed this thread since finding it and the Dennis thread at christmas and reading both from the begining. Wonderful work! I can now contribute a little on the brass plate issue. As well as Press-n-peel (letraset) for etch resists. you can get special paper for laser printers that lets you print an image and then transfer the image to the copper or brass by ironing the back of it. This is great for any intricate work and repeats of the same plate. See ebay items 111679671618 and 181718392764 or search laser printer pcb resist transfer.

 

Keep up the good work.

Robert.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Funnily enough I ordered some Press-n-Peel about an hour before I saw this thread, for making some patent plates.

 

I posted this elsewhere but thought it might be relevant here.

This is the only picture I've ever seen that shows the patent plate:

19026715078_75f7ecdd97_c.jpg

It can be seen peeking out from behind the main steam pipe/regulator box. I also have the works drawing, but that's just basically the text and overall size.

 

 

 

 

I drew it up digitally (using "Inkscape"). I then printed it using a laser printer in reverse on the "Press-n-Peel" paper.

18593739483_52ffe0ae82_c.jpg

 

 

Here's what it looked like once ironed onto the brass sheet (I think I maybe had the iron a touch too hot, hence the less than perfect reproduction).

19026715058_ce0b59ebc8_c.jpg

The back of the sheet was covered with parcel tape to prevent it etching.

 

 

This was then placed in Ferric Chloride (again, sold for making PCB's). Here's the result when it came out after about 45 minutes:

19028154239_313d8a4399_c.jpg

 

 

After trimming down and (admittedly badly!) painting it, this was the result:

18593739613_c7b9383546_c.jpg

 

I'm pretty pleased, overall. I can probably do better, and might have a second go at it, but given its inconspicuous location, I'm quite pleased overall!

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Good morning all.

 

I have enthusiastically followed this and the Dennis thread now for several years. Can I respectfully ask for two things?

 

1. Please, if you are going to reply to a post that has photos in it, dont use the quote facility and reproduce all the photos, just reply and

 

2. Whilst I wouldn't say this thread has been hijacked, its certainly been sent off on a tangent. If you wish to discuss off topic matters, why not start a new thread? This one is not about data plates.

 

Thank you.

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I agree with you about the reproduction of photos in replies. However I disagree with you about topics such as the data plates.

 

The reason why is that the Goslings are acknowledged miracle workers which makes their restorations extremely popular reading and thus it also attracts tangent subject knowledge which otherwise may not come to light. Where for instance could I post a thread with the subject of reproduction/restoration of data plates that could possibly elicit the response that it achieved here?

 

Perhaps "MV Chatter", "I may be stupid but" etc. "Blogs of MV Restorations" would be inappropriate as I have nothing to show yet. This thread attracts those who also restore and thus have the skills and knowledge and those who admire.

 

True, at this point, if the thread were to go further a link can be put in and a new thread on that subject started.

 

I will point out, that it was one of the Goslings that posted the link in either this thread or the Dennis one to the Neuacar (SP?)

restoration from which this tangent started, he thought that restoration of interest to those who read this thread.

Had I say introduced a tangent of WW1 Re-enacting, then yes, that is an inappropriate tangent on a restoration thread, but I disagree with you in this instance.

 

Regards

Doug

 

Good morning all.

 

I have enthusiastically followed this and the Dennis thread now for several years. Can I respectfully ask for two things?

 

1. Please, if you are going to reply to a post that has photos in it, dont use the quote facility and reproduce all the photos, just reply and

 

2. Whilst I wouldn't say this thread has been hijacked, its certainly been sent off on a tangent. If you wish to discuss off topic matters, why not start a new thread? This one is not about data plates.

 

Thank you.

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Good morning all.

 

I have enthusiastically followed this and the Dennis thread now for several years. Can I respectfully ask for two things?

 

1. Please, if you are going to reply to a post that has photos in it, dont use the quote facility and reproduce all the photos, just reply and

 

2. Whilst I wouldn't say this thread has been hijacked, its certainly been sent off on a tangent. If you wish to discuss off topic matters, why not start a new thread? This one is not about data plates.

 

Thank you.

 

Yes, totally agree on the pictures, very irritating! maybe this could be addressed too in another section?? (about forum rules?)

 

But I also don't like people hiding behind user names...........

 

Cheers,

 

Alex

Edited by welbike
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Replying with a quote (includes any pictures), which the very critics are doing themselves, is not so much 'operator error' as controls design. When looking at the screen all that you see is "reply with quote" and it is only by scrolling all the way down that the "reply to thread" becomes visible. Putting both options side by side would cure the problem. Took a while to get brake and accelerator pedals side by side, just saying.

Steven

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It might also be that the quoters aren't aware that you can delete images or bits and pieces from within a quote.

 

Still, I suspect discussing quoting in a restoration thread might be taking things off topic...

 

On the data plates, personally I like to see these 'tangents' discussed in such a thread. It makes the topic more interesting and alive, is relevant to the topic, exposes me to techniques and information that I might not know about, and potentially feeds new information and techniques back to the original poster, in this case the Goslings. Everyone benefits.

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Thanks for the constructive criticism chaps. It took me a while before I realised that quotes could be edited!

 

Anyway, to bring us back on topic, here is the data plate I had made for the Thorny many years ago:

 

DSCN5337c.jpg

 

Ours was missing, of course, although we still have the chassis/engine number plate which is separate. It was made by the late Alan Gettings in Somerset from a photo and overall dimensions which I provided. When he retired, he sold his model makers etched plate business to Diane Carney who now resides in the Lake District and who has made quite a few more plates for us since. Unfortunately for us, she has stopped doing this as another job now takes her time. I can provide artwork but my challenge now is to find someone who will do the etching for us, not that I need any at the moment.

 

Sorry we have been so quiet recently but it has all been in a good cause. I have had the builders in putting up a new home for the Dennis. My neighbours keep asking why I need such a huge garage! Little do they know what is going to turn up on this quiet housing estate.......

 

 

Steve

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Steve

 

Sorry to hear your source for data plates is no longer in business. Subsequent to my message on this subject, "Super 6" kindly posted a link to "Vintagebrassplates" who responded to my query to them. They don't just do brass plates either, but effectively all variations such as ink on aluminium etc.

No idea of the quality of their work as I have not purchased from them at this stage. They do state that they are willing to work from just a photo provided it is of reasonable quality, so I am assuming from that, that they will do the art work.

I won't go stating prices, as those will obviously vary depending on media, provision of art work etc.

It would be nice if there was a company a bit closer to home in Oz so that I wasn't on the wrong side of the exchange rate and the now exorbitant international postage rates, but at least there is someone still doing data plates bespoke. From what I can find out, those in the US are really only resellers of surplused US military plates ie. no production facility.

 

Regards

Doug

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It would be nice if there was a company a bit closer to home in Oz so that I wasn't on the wrong side of the exchange rate and the now exorbitant international postage rates, but at least there is someone still doing data plates bespoke. From what I can find out, those in the US are really only resellers of surplused US military plates ie. no production facility.

 

 

 

Doug,

As a past participant of the Corowa Swim-In you would have received one of the brass plaques, made by the same process by a company in Qld called Mastercuts. They do an excellent job as I have designed them for the last 4 years and very pleased at the results. So there are companies in your own country to seek out.

 

regards, Richard

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Richard

 

Of course, thanks for the memory jog. Even better now that I know where they came from!

 

Regards

Doug

 

Hi Doug,

 

Mastercut is my brothers company and as Richard says, they do a really good job.( not that I am biased.)

One off are a bit of a problem as set-up cost might make it out of reach, but contact them anyway.

 

The contact details and website are:-

 

http://www.mastercut.com.au/

 

[h=3]Mastercut Technologies Pty Ltd[/h]

22 Leda Drive

Burleigh Heads

Queensland, Australia 4220

 

Phone: (07) 5576 1900

Fax: (07) 5576 1910

 

info-at-mastercut-red_2.aspx?width=177&height=15

 

Regards Rick.

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Things have been a little slower of late – Steve has been very involved with the construction of his new “Motor House” which is to permanently house the Dennis whilst certain other distractions have slowed up Tony and Tim. Nevertheless, some work has been going on – Tony has been preparing the Brake Pads for final riveting to the shoes but has been waiting until today for the availability of the extra pair of hands to complete the actual riveting! Very fortunately, he was visited by a member of this Forum today, from “over the Border” who wanted to see what was going on here and he was only too pleased to join in to help and to provide the extra pair of hands that were needed.

DSCN0506_zpsvwxn95xp.jpg

DSCN0500_zpsvz2dtbya.jpg

DSCN0499_zpshz3adukr.jpg

 

The pads were first of all clamped to the shoes and then drilled through 1/4” from the original rivet holes and then temporarily bolted on at this stage.

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The 1/4” holes in the linings need to be counter-bored to about 2/3 of their thickness to accommodate the heads of the rivets and to ensure that the rivet heads remain clear of the brake drums. We do not have a 1/2” counter-bore with a 1/4” pilot so we improvised by locating the hole with a piece of 1/4” steel and then used a 1/2” end mill with a piece of masking tape around it to indicate the depth required and counter-bored that way, ensuring that the pad was not moved between the two operations

DSCN0509_zpsicto4za9.jpg

DSCN0512_zpscl8zh21c.jpg

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