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cmpman

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About cmpman

  • Birthday July 9

Personal Information

  • Location
    Shilo MB Canada
  • Interests
    Canadian used military vehicles, howitzers and firearms
  • Occupation
    retired

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  1. David I have a reasonable bit of experience with the ferrets, which seems to be applicable to the Dingo. The lineage is quite clear. However, you bring up a good point that I'll have to pass on to any volunteers who want to move the vehicle. I think the Dingo will remain in two wheel drive for the meantime.
  2. Thanks guys. The oil appeared to be engine type oil but with a reddish tinge, so I thought someone may have topped up with dexron at some point. The transmission oil as that tinge to it, and I have not checked the fluid coupling yet. So what is preferable for the fluid coupling: the 30 weight or the ISO10 hydraulic oil? Our vehicle has both the front propeller shafts removed. No doubt they will be hiding in a triwall somewhere. Are they important to help divide the load from the rear gear boxes and shafts, or do they cause more wear by providing the full time four wheel drive on the typically hard surfaces the vehicle will be operated on these days?
  3. I work at a local military museum. One of the pieces is a Dingo that a previous volunteer tore apart, and sadly he is now deceased, so the challenge of putting things right again fall on those of us remaining. He had removed pretty much all of the panels under the engine looking for a leak. However, we found the leak to be coming from the bell housing. Of course, now that we have it running, the leak has stopped. The transmission is showing full, or perhaps even a little overfilled. But just in case the leak was from the fluid coupling, I am going to check it's level and top up if necessary. What is the modern day correct oil that goes in the fluid coupling and the transmission? Are the transmission input seal or the fluid coupling seal something special, or just plain seals available at the local jobber? We also had some issues with the starter, in particular wear on the contacts of the solenoid. Are there any sources of parts for these? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide.
  4. Thanks for the compliment Rob, it sure looks a lot better than the pile of scrap metal that I started with. Those parts are on the backburner for now. I have moved on to a couple of other projects, such as this one to tow the C1 to displays. Here I have just installed a cleaned up winch and bumper to the front of the M135. Paint for the rest of the truck will follow this summer.
  5. I don't have an M2A1, but I have a Canadian C1 (M2A2) which I assembled out of scrapyard parts last year. Still looking for a breech ring, and elevation gear train components if anyone comes across any.
  6. I guess I should add that it is about 3 feet long, since the photo doesn't give a good representation of the size.
  7. While sorting through crates of parts stowed away at the local museum, I came across a gun shield that I can't ID. For some reason, it looks familiar, but I can't place it. It has a layer of "axis grey" over the original OD if that is of any help. The shield is fairly thin and stamped, so I am guessing a shield for an anti tank or possibly a machine gun. Does anyone recognize the application?
  8. Thanks for the info......guess I'll have to pass on the block but at least I can let the seller know what he has. What I am really after is the block and breech ring for the C1 (M2A2) 105 howitzer. One of these days someone will have what I need.
  9. Here are some shots of another block I am being offered. The owner thinks it may be from a 105mm gun from a centurion L7 gun. The date of 1978 was right at the tail end of our centurion fleet's lifespan. They were replaced by the Leopard late that year. So does anyone know for certain what the block is from? The British were (and still are) located in the Canadian prairies, so it may have come from there.
  10. If anyone needs some more detail just ask and I'll see what I can do.
  11. Rob asked for some photos of this gun over on MLU, and I took a dozen or so. I know when I was trying to research this gun a while back there was very little on the net about it, so I am going to post the photos here as well so there is a bit more exposure for anyone else trying to research them. The photos are of an example located here in the Shilo museum. Are there any more examples out there, or have these guns all disappeared?
  12. The M4A1 quadrant is one of the items I am still in need of for my project. Nice score! I already have to M23 for the top of the quadrant....just don't have anything to mount it on.
  13. Thanks for the info Rob. I just got confirmation over on MLU that they are indeed Leopard. The staves thread may be a NATO or industry standard.
  14. I was out to my favorite scrapyard a couple weekends ago and amongst the treasures I came across these unidentified bore brushes. They seem to be 105mm, but they are longer than any that I have seen before. They do match up to the C1 (M2A2) howitzer cleaning rods, but there are no ordnance or NSNs on any part of these brushes. It is possible that they are 106 recoiless or else possibly German Leopard, since both those equipments were operated in this area for quite some time. The single one on the right is the regular 105 howitzer brush. Has anyone seen these longer ones before? Here are some of the other goodies I came across. I already had the more modern double style towing lights, so I was happy to find the earlier style single M-series lights. As well, I found an extra firing arc (I just needed the bottom stop) and also found a Canadian style telescope stowage case for the front armour. Here you can see the difference between the regular stowage box and the one found on the Cdn 105s and 155s. I suspect it was a later drawing change to accommodate the controls on the later M12A7 panoramic telescope.
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