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PB1954RNS

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PB1954RNS last won the day on September 15 2020

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  1. Hi. Sorry I have no idea as the lorry beds are totally different. You would have to measure a pontoon and then stack another one on top to get the required height for the towers. Looking at the photos of both lorry's the Pontoon could be higher as it is carrying a more bulky parts of the bridge. Also the beds are very much different, there is much more steel work on mine compared to the Pontoon Carrier. As for drawings, could be difficult as most companies who did war work burnt them when the war ended. Try Royal Eng's, Museum Chatham they might be able to help. They did send me line drawings from a manual of early bridging units - not great detail but might help. I'm sure a model making company did a 1:72 white metal kit of a Pontoon Carrier - not sure who - if you can find out who they are they might be able to help you with a drawing or tell you where they got it from. Is it a model or rebuilding a lorry. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  2. Hi. The height of the tower from the bottom of the angle iron to the top of the tower is 88-3/8". It is a real nightmare to measure up the tower as it changes on the taper front and back. You are welcome to measure them as long as you don't fall off the lorry. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  3. Hi Dan. Many thanks for the info, I have now made the pegs out of wood but always useful for other pins on the Albion. Many Thanks. Paul Burns.
  4. Hi. As promised photo of a Albion Pontoon Carrier via IWM. The winches are the same as fitted to the BY5 - with a fold up handle. If you can expand the photo on your computer you can see the hooks underneath a cross bracing on the towers. All it was a hand operated winch with the cable going over a pulley down to the hook, over another pulley with the wire fixed to the tower. The body is more open than on the BY5 as it has side walkways with raised side pieces where on the Pontoon Carrier there are none. As for records, my Albion cost for chassis - £1080, Cab £68 and Free Issues £62.12.10. Weymanns of Surrey in 1942, had a contract to build 329 bodies and fit BY5. Also they did also have a contract to build 225 Pontoon bodies and fit on the Albion chassis but this was cancelled, I can only think that another motor body builder got the contract to build them. Pontoons were made out of a strong wood frame and covered by 'CONSUTA' plywood on bottom, sides and deck with special couplings to join two pontoons into one pier. Length was about 22 foot and weigh 1,400lbs. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  5. Hi. The lifting beams are operated by a team of 4 men and each tower had a hand winch with steel cable and they had to wind/unwind at the same time or run the risk of getting the beam jammed. Pontoon Albion. They had a different body as they only carried two pontoons. They still had the 4 towers with hand winches but no lifting beams as they had hooks ,also the towers were open faced where the FBE had enclosed faces with a slot to guide the beams up/down. On the pontoon body the tie downs were different to the BY5, no overhead locker and a flat cab back again on the BY5 it had a vee in the back of the cab for the nose of the boats to go into. It was about 12" above the cab roof which was canvas. I will sort out a photo of the Pontoon Carrier and you can see the difference between the BY5 and the Pontoon lorry. P Burns.
  6. Hi. Been some time since I posted any info, but I have taken time out to work on a couple of projects that have sat on the back burner. These have been on the to do list for a couple of years, so thought time to do them. Lifting Beams Pegs. Well having a good think about them and the costs of castings, I made the missing 4 pegs out of wood. These will do until I want to get them cast in Iron. They took about 3/4 days to make one, as I don't have a wood turning lathe so I cut and filed with various Rasps to get the main part of the peg round and central to the rest of the body. I then drilled a small hole in the main body and bent up out of Brass round bar a 2" ring and fitted a small chain then a small bracket to the chain. The originals have a ring welded to the tower but having no welder, decided to bolt them on. Lifting Beams. The lorry has two original beams at the front and two rear new build. There was no lifting chains on them as far as I can see they were just left sitting on top of each other in the chassis. I have put new chains on the beams and left a certain amount of surplus for when I get the last beam made up and connect them to the chain. Two of the beams had no rings in them so again I bent two new rings up out of steel round bar. Rollers. The two rollers have now been made up and fitted, these are to guide the folding boats on the roller bed. Electrics On the rear of the lorry fitted under the rear hook, there are two small lights fitted in a bracket with a on/off switch. They shine outwards, so are they convoy lights so the following lorry can see then and not have a axle flood light. I have checked the wiring diagram to see if they are on there but can only find brake stop lights. When I stripped them they had one red slide and a white slide, to which I have replaced as per original. Would these these be a Post War mod as there was no axle flood light on the lorry when I got from the scrap yard and no part with the lorry. The photo's are not too good as the lorry is parked close to my fence but will try again to show how they match up with the war time photo. So I'm going to try and get a lamp and wire it in with a switch so it gives more light on the rear end of the lorry when driving in the dark.
  7. Hi. Many thanks for every one's help with suggestions for the pins. The overall size of the pin is 9.5" and the round shaft is 3/4" diameter and 6.3/4" in length. I'm trying to get the pins as close as I can to the originals. As for casting them myself, a idea worth looking at but the lady of the house is not to keen about this, as she is worried about finding a missing husband and a 5ft crater in the garden ! Many thanks. Paul Burns.
  8. Hi Alex. What you have suggested is 'Plan C' and making them out of wood is 'Plan D'. Many thanks. Paul Burns.
  9. Hi Missing photo of the peg, I have tried to put the other photos on - but the site wont let me. Cheers. PB
  10. Another Update. Hi. Just carrying on with my list of small to do jobs, I wanted to see about making up the three missing pegs that support the lifting arms in the towers. Cost of having 3 cast in steel using the original peg as a pattern, the costs are eye watering ! - £140 each, plus foundry charges and vat - come to over £500 - ouch!!. Then moved on to having them machined out of 2" bar - 3-4 hours work on each one and between £40 - £60 a hour - double ouch!! I wanted to keep them as original but might have to lower my standards and see what the costs are for them to be cast in Aluminium, but for the moment they have been moved to the bottom of my list. Next, was the set up of the two running boards with some straps on them. On checking the drawing for the chassis details of a BY3, there is a note on the drawing that the flat straps are for securing overall chains. The straps are made out of leather hide and are 1.1/4" x 3/16 and at the end of each strap a buckling piece and fixed securely to suitable 'D' staples and fixed to the under side of the running boards' The straps should be of a length to accommodate the overall chains and packing sizes of each chain is 39 x 21 x8 and 1 chain carried on each running board. On checking the BY5 war time photos the running boards show a round piece in the straps, I have spent hours trying to figure what they are ? So I think that they are the straps coiled up as you can see the holes in the strap for the belt buckle to fit into. I have put photos in to show what I mean - full side view and close up of the straps on the running boards. I will make up two cases to be carried on the running boards and painted with markings but filled up with tools etc. There should be a photo of the metal peg but when I went to load it up, it was missing so I shall put on the next update. Cheers. P.B
  11. 2022 Up Date. Hi. Now that winter is moving on and I can now come out of hibernation, start to do some more work on the lorry. As shown on the last posting, I'm trying to finish the back end of the bed by replacing the missing parts and have finished the last bracket for the tube and is fitted. So I moved on to the two guides that sit at the bottom of the two towers. I worked off the photos of the lorry as built and scaled up to what I thought would be the correct size. I did a mock up with a toilet roll and made up the brackets - top and bottom from cardboard. Having checked the sizes, I drew up a drawing and made 4 copies to be stuck on to sheet metal for cutting out. Then it was a case of folding them up for top and bottom - left side and then same again for - Right side top and bottom. The first photo shows the finished brackets with the design bracket made out of cardboard. Second shows the finished brackets for the Left side. The wood rollers came from a patio spindles but I'm not sure about one of them as it's got a taper where the other one is a barrel shape, but it will do for the time being as I have to drill and fix to the bottom of the towers. Looking at the war time photo it looks like they were riveted on and not bolted, there is very little clearance between the lifting beams and a bolt head. Might have to fit them with bolts but wind up and leave the lifting beams in their correct position as I don't have any ways of hot riveting. If you want to see where they fit then just check the B/W war time photo and look at the bottom of the towers. Thanks. P.B
  12. Small Jobs List - Part 2. Hi. First on the jobs list was to replace the four remaining wasted nuts on the holding down bolts for the rear springs. A right swine to do as they had to use a chisel take each one off and the photo shows them fitted and awaiting a coat of red oxide and green to finish. Next. On the front drivers side slave servo cylinder, there is a flip lid oil cup but this one was missing. On removing it it was full of a oily mud/sludge and no way could it of been getting oil down to the piston. The black worm type thing next to the cup is a pipe cleaner and not suitable for it's job. Sunday afternoon searching the WWW, I found a company who could supply different size flip lid oil cups, magic I thought now check the sizes and order one. The only problem was it had a BSP Thread but I would wait until it arrived to check it with the old oil cup. The old oil cup had a BSF Thread and the new cup was not going to fit the servo body. Thinks - how to make it fit ? On measuring the diameter of the old oil cup threads which was 0.350 thou and checking the threads on the body of the new oil cup which was 0.375 thou, it gave me 0.025 thou to cut a new thread on the new oil cup. So using a new die and filing a slight lead for the die, cut a new BSF Thread on it and fitted okay - see photo. All it needs now is a coat of paint and looks the job - black worm to the bin and oil cup to my spares box. One problem that has been nagging at me to get done for some time is the oil leak on the steering box. There must be a worn seal which is allowing the oil to leak out - see photo. It is running down the steering arm and any parts of the lorry that's in the same area, so it's a case of studying the workshop manual to get an idea as to which seal is leaking and replace it. The second bracket for the tube that fits at the rear of the lorry, is nearly finished but will need a touch of the welder. Also the brackets for the guide fitted to the two rear towers are marked out ready for cutting out but I had a slight problem cutting them out as I cut through the main cable to the grinder - slight bang and a puff of smoke. Power to parts of the house off and the dear wife rushing out to see if I was lit up like a Christmas tree ! On hiding the damaged grinder behind my back, I very carefully blamed the extension cable for causing the problem as it is a old one, all that I have to do now is join the cable back together and hope no damage has been done to the grinder as it is fairly new one. Cheers P.B
  13. Small Jobs List. Hi. Just a quick update on the list of small jobs. Rad Drain Cock. I didn't put a photo of this but just to say that the drain cock was sized and the handle had been broken off some time in it's history. Bit of a sod to remove it from the rad, but a couple of swear words , spanner and a bit of pipe it gave up the struggle and taken into the workshop to be stripped down. The handle had been broken off flush with the spindle and then trying to strip the drain cock down was a right pain. With plenty of penetrating oil left to soak for a hour and with a gentle tap on the end of the spindle the cock came apart. All rusty parts cleaned up and I had to drill a small hole in the remains of the handle, out a small stud remover and out it came. Checked the threads and found to be B.S.F and I had a piece of brass bar at the correct size to make a new handle. The valve was put back together with a slight smear of silicon grease and went back okay. Passengers Side Foot Rest. No photo, as all I could do with this was to forget pyramid nosing and put strips of steel down for the Passenger foot rest. Rear End of The Lorry . Right I have been studying the war time photo of the Albion as shown at a depot on delivery. There is a bar fixed to adjustable shackles and held in place with two brackets and I have no idea what the purpose of this item was.? I have checked every book and museums as to what this bar does and no other details of the brackets apart from the photo so I have made up my own . The first photo shows the lorry bed and you can see the bar on the adjustable shackles and the chain secured to it. So I made a cardboard mock up as shown in the 2nd/3rd photo and kept measuring until it was correct and cut and bent one out of 3mm steel I still have to make another one but should be a lot easy. The bar as shown in photo 4, was cut out of 1.5" tube with a couple of wooden bungs fitted in the ends and a nut/bolt fitted as well. The - call it a safety chain had been cut being withdrawn from service with the bar or during standing in the scrap yard. I brought a 38mm 'U' clamp as fitted to a car exhaust and made a small bracket for the chain to be fitted to. I had to replace 14 links of chain to get it to hang correct and fit the bracket as shown in photo 5. The bar still has to be adjusted some more as it's on a slight slope to the Drivers side. Photo 6 shows the nearly finished job apart from making and fitting the last bracket. Photo 7. Shows some sort of cardboard device, well it's a mock up of the side rollers with brackets as fitted to the rear towers. These are the next project to be made up and from the Black and White photo the rollers look like turned wood so might have to change these to steel pipe. They where fitted to guide the boats on the chassis, so there is very little chance of the lorry carrying folding boats again; so might just leave them fixed and just for show. Many Thanks. Paul Burns
  14. Hi. Many thanks for your words, I think it was the feeling of doom and gloom, it just put me off from going out and working on it. But now fuelled up and running to do as much catch up as I can to get it finished. Cheers P.B
  15. Hi. It's been nearly a year since I put a up date on the Albion and I have to admit that I did lose interest in doing any work during this plague. But after two jabs and a friendly kick up the bum, set about catching up on the work that has been waiting for my attention. I have a long list of small jobs that needed doing and set about doing them, when you cross off one job there is still another 24 to do. Small jobs. I will keep it short as I don't want your eyes to glaze over if I put the long list. I'm looking for some tie downs that fit on the body work - check photos and would any one have 4 spare that they don't need. Would they be the same as fitted to trailers ? I have put a new steel plate in between the side angle to support the 10ft oars and 6ft barge poles that are secured in between the frames. I did plan to cover all 11ft of the inside of the chassis but it was a daft idea as it made it tight to get to the rear diff's and there was a 100% chance I was going to bang my head when trying to work inside, still got the scar from head butting the frame stretcher . Next, is looking for the Bridge Type Fuses as I'm missing one for the Horn circuit and would like to have a few spares as well. I do plan to get the fuse board up dated and take modern fuses but that is a long way off. The double headed bolts on the rear bogie truck had rusted away to the point that they had to be replaced again check photos. They are at the front but there are two at the back will need to be replaced as well, just waiting for the 3/4" Whit nuts to turn up. Had to remake the dust covers for the wheel bearings as the local wild life - fox - liked the smell of the leather and destroyed them. First big job. I'm going to strip down all the brake gear front front to back, but before I start I have to measure up all the adjustment distances. This is so I get the linkages back in the right allowances as the workshop manual states that you have to lift all rear wheels off the ground and adjust. Let me think 2 ton of lorry in the air , slide along on the ground to the brake adjusters - no I think will wait until Saint Peter calls me before I depart this world. Cheers. P.B Right call a stop and I would be grateful if any one can help me with the spares .
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