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Bilbo42

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About Bilbo42

  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  1. Hello all. I've been away quite a while but am back and seeking info. Several years ago, I found a French STTA ER-79A dated 11/76 and the STTA DY-27-B power supply that goes with it. I have just now been able to have time to see if I can get it up and running. As I understand it, the ER-79A is the French equivalent to our Prc-10 except with slightly different frequencies. I have read on the net that the DY-27-B will power it using 8 D cells wired in series for 12 volts. When I got it, it came wired with the male plug like what would go in the cigarette lighter female hole in the old days. I guess a better way to say it is it is set up I think to use a 12 car battery receptacle. Also it came with two of the black plastic battery boxes (each set up for 4 D cells) so the DY-27-B could use D cells instead of the car battery plug. I guess these are two separate ways the DY-27 could be powered. My question to you folks that know a lot more than me about this stuff, is would it hurt to use the 12 volt car battery setup because that has higher amperage than the 8 D cells? Not sure if I said that right but I don't want to blow up my radio. Just because the DY-27 came setup for a car battery doesn't necessarily mean the guy ever really tried it or maybe he did and it blew the radio. It would be more convenient for me to use a car battery but don't want to hurt the radio.The car wiring setup from the previous owner does have an inline fuse of 5A 32 V which sounds way to high. Any thoughts from y'all would be most welcome!!! Mr. Administrator, if you feel I would be better served by reposting this in American radios since it relates to the PRC-10, please feel free. Thank you.
  2. Thank you Mr. Elliott With the isolating relay doing its job to keep the two sets of batteries separate, sounds like I need to get another set of batteries...hook them to the vehicle at the approriate place and then come off those batteries to the DY-105 power supply to run the radio. Now, the $64 question is...do I connect the two new batteries to the terminals on top of the generator box or is that not the place. Sadly, without the chance to get British radios for the vehicle, I have never explored the approriate process. Thanks for your help. I don't know if you remember me but you directed me to a friend of yours sometime back who really helped me research approriate 1974ish military vehicle marking. Best regards, Bil
  3. Let me preface by saying that I know nothing about how to hook up a radio to my FFR. I do have an American radio that opertes from a number of power supplies, one of which is a DY-105 which requires 24 volts to operate AND I do have an FFR!!! With that said, I don't want to screw up the FFR by hooking something up that will blow something in the Ltwt!!!! But, it would be nice if I could run the radio that way instead of hand cranking!! The DY-105's purpose is to translate the many different voltages required for the GRC-9 to operate from a 24 volt source. Using the DY-105 does not require any batteries between it and the GRC-9. I know that a vehical with a NEGATIVE ground must be used. In American vehicles, the connection from the DY-105 (the power converter) can be made directly to the vehicle's batteries to get 24 volts to it and from it comes the voltages for the radio. I guess my question is, is it something that I don't need to do, or is it something, if done correctly would work fine. On my prior post, it was said that the FFR system was intended to charge and keep charging storage batteries that were then hooked up to the radio(s). Would it be more practicle for me to have two extra 12 volt car batteries wired correctly to get 24 volts hooked up to the FFR's system and those extra two batteries then hooked to the DY-105. That way the rover would just be charging the xtra batteries or is it more complicated than that? What I don't want to happen is for me to transmit and the power drain do something to the rover or have something else happen because I did something I was not supposed to. I hope this makes sense. I would appreciate your thoughts. Bil
  4. I see what you mean. I will post a general question in that category and see what kind of thoughts I get. Thanks again. Bil
  5. Thanks for all of your thoughts on the Bren. As my project is never really finished as long as I can get appropriate kit, I will keep my eye out for the correct armament. :0) Bil BTW...question: I have an American radio, a GRC-9 (basically Vietnam era) and a DY-105 Dynamotor that provides all the power to the GRC-9 when hooked up to a 24 volt supply...either vehicle or battery. If I want to start a discussion about hooking it up to mt FFR Ltwt, should I start a new threat under British vehicles or the one called Lubrication, Batteries, Electrics? I will try and keep my questions relative to the FFR's system and how to test current from it and grounding, etc, so no real knowledge of American radios will be needed. I don't plan to use it with the FFR or display it with the FFR, I just want to use the vehicle's 24 volt system to test it rather than the hand crank system that I have for it. It is kinda hard to crank +/- 60 revolutions a minute, listen to the headphones, and try to tune. If I get it hooked up to the Ltwt, I have a friend who has his radio license who will try and transmit for me until I finish getting mine. What do you think? Thanks, Bil
  6. I get your point. I seem to find myself carrying my .45 more now than I used to! I guess that the ones (vehicles) on display that I see are trying to portray the vehicle with its equipment in place. By equipment, I mean as it would be if a snap shot could be taken at a particular time in space outfitted as it would have served. I often see period pictures of Land Rovers with packs strapped on the side, netting strung out, petrol and water cans in place, and fixed wepons mounted. I guess if someone dressed in period clothing were to be sitting or standing in place with the vehicle, that would even be better for the simulation. If anyone wants to donate a 1974ish uniform, I will happily pay shipping across the pond. XL please!! :0) As far as the few shows I have been to here in the States, military wepons on display are a big thing. I guess maybe you could say they are just using the vehicle as a platform to display their wepons! I am attaching a pic to illustrate what I would want my ideal vehicle to look like on display--people included. I hope I am not stepping on anyones toes with this photo. I can't remember where I got it but I don't think it is copyrighted. if so, would the moderator please remove it. I guess, the same thought goes for aircraft on display too! Best regards, Bil
  7. Comsetically, the "old" Bren looks a lot like the the L4 to me with the exceptions that everyone noted. If I had the "old" bren that was demilled, it does not seem to be too much work to modify it to "appear" to be an L4. My issue is when I go to military shows and airshows, parades, etc, every American vehicle looks like it is going straight into WWIII! I mean multiple guns on each!!! M60, 50 cal. 30 cal, BAR, recoiless rifles, quad 50s..you name it. That does not count the M1 carbines, Garands, M14s, 45s, Thompsons, etc. I want something!!!!! Even a demilled Bren cost a fortune over here and there does not seem to ne any "hard rubber or plastic" variants around. I know I could get a version of the L1A1 SLR to put in the rifle rack but I was hoping for more. I do have a SMLE Mk III , a No. 4 Mk I, and a Lee-Enfield No. 5 Mk I Rifle but those don't quite fit the 1974 time frame I want to use for displaying the lightweight. Maybe i could portray a Lightweight carrying antique firearms to a museum!! :0) Bil
  8. I seem to recall period photographs of Lightweights on patrol, recon. etc that had a GPMG mounted in the rear on a pedestal. Prior to the GPMG was a Bren gun ever used in this role in the Lightweight, either mounted up front or on a pedestal. Could it have been feasible to have one there in the mid 1970s? If so, would the Bren gun in that period most likely been mounted up front on the passenger side or rear? And, does anyone know of the nomenclature of the mount, ie, model number or something. A picture of h mount would help too. Thanks, Bil i am thinking of one like this.
  9. I seem to recall period photographs of Lightweights on patrol, recon. etc that had a GPMG mounted in the rear on a pedestal. Prior to the GPMG was a Bren gun ever used in this role in the Lightweight, either mounted up front or on a pedestal. Could it have been feasible to have one there in the mid 1970s? If so, would the Bren gun in that period most likely been mounted up front on the passenger side or rear? And, does anyone know of the nomenclature of the mount, ie, model number or something. A picture would help too. thanks, Bil
  10. Thanks to all. I really had no idea what it was! Bil
  11. OK-got another maybe stupid question. I was speaking with someone today who asked me if I had ever seen the "slave" unit (I think that is what he said) that fit on top of one of the wheel wells in the FFR Lightweight. I think he said it wnet behind the generator box that is behind my seat. He said it was to start the vehicle if the vehicle's batteries were low?? Would someone put this in context for me. Bil
  12. OK. Good advice. I will remember that. Bil
  13. Addendum to my last post.I finally got to a human at Rovers North and he said the wiper arm width changed over time ..went fro 5mm to 7mm in the late Lightweights (maybe regular Series IIIs too). He said the RNF238 (the srung one )came with an adapter that could be removed to go from 7mm back to 5mm and that the other one PLD285 is just 5mm. Is that true? Good news, they have my bushings for the doors and the knob for the vent. Bad news.... the vent knob is $24 USD WOW.
  14. OK, I thought I was through with this. If I order from John Craddock I can get the PRC1330 WIPER BLADE STRAIGHT FIXING SPRUNG TYPE...which is what I want instead of the flat blade. I can also order the knob for my vent from them. If I wait on the knob and just get the blades over here at Rovers North I run into an issue. I measured the width of the slot on the wiper blade I have and it is 7mm. I measured the wiper arm that slides into the slot. It is 5mm. OK, if I go to Rovers North..they have the following pages.. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-759-windscreen-wipers-washers.aspx On that page it shows wipers and arms. When you look at the lower diagram the one with blades 3 and 7.....7 (RNF238) is a sprung type but for 7mm arm http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6053-wiper-blade-10-black-series-iia-iii-7mm-arm.aspx Blade number 3 is the flat type PLD285 but it says 5mm arm http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4799-wiper-blade-10-black-series-iia-iii-5mm-arm.aspx They say both fit Late IIA and Series III. It sure would be easy if one was marked PRC1330!!!!! Do they know what they are talking about with this 5mm and 7mm stuff. I guess, not to screw up I could go with the 5mm arm flat blade but I sure would like the srung type. Have I confused everyone? Ideas?? Bil Picture from our recent air show attached for fun! A friend of mine is flying the one with the yellow tail.
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