kw573

Thank you for the heads-up. There are plenty of Landrover owners in my club, I'll offer it there first. Have a nice day. Sam.

Hi all, My question is what is this lamp for? Will part with it if interested. Located in eastern Australia.. Sam.

I've got a shipment at JeepDodgeGMC, stalled for almost 2 years now and we don't know why. It needs a vehicle preparations to be done, then packed for shipping. Hasn't been touched for a looong time, that we can see. Can't get contact and calls/emails aren't returned. Very frustrated!!!! Sam, downunder.

Hi all, I have a GPW as a daily driver that is RHD. I'm in Australia. It was RHD when I bought it decades ago, in the days when LHD rego in Queensland was quite difficult (prove rego during 3 year post WW2 LHD amnesty). Being an ex-Australian military vehicle, I presume that it was converted by the army. Anyway, when I got it, the poor Jeep was in very poor condition, including the steering. So I rebuilt the steering system using mostly parts from common vehicles. The drag link is along the outside of the chassis, bent to clear the tire on a right turn and connects to a 'C' shaped arm that bolts to a modified top king pin bearing cap. It is 'C' shaped to clear the brake hose. The pitman arms are relocated to the bottom of the CV housing. Also, the top shockie mount has been moved forward to allow clearance on a full right turn. It has very noticeable, though not prohibitive 'brake-torque-steering'. This is when the axle housing rotates forward on the springs when braking, effectively changing the length of the drag link, causing it to pull to the left. As the LHD laws here have become very easy, I intend to convert it back to original some day. Amusingly, I'll have to obtain a modern 'modification plate' as the vehicle will be deemed to be modified despite going back to factory specs!!! My 2cents. Sam.

Hi Sam Yes I am on F/B but I never use it other than for videos. I don't know how to connect you to it. Sam (downunder)

Wow, Sam, you have plenty of work ahead of you! The loose bearings in the top of the diffs seems fairly typical (to me) in both the 4 ton and 12 ton Diamond Ts and the WLFs. It seems to be due to poor lubrication of that section of the diff. If found soon enough, it is a (relatively) simple job to just replace the two bearings, but then you have to check the crownwheel/pinion adjustment. I notice that the bull gear is helical cut, whereas the 4 tonner has straight-cut bull gear teeth. Question, are you doing riveting? If so, I'd be interested in seeing pictures of the process you do and a description. It (hot riveting) is something I know nothing about. I look forward to a steady flow of pictures and descriptions of this trucks' revival. An interested . . . Sam (Downunder)

Thanks for that, lads. I'll give them a go. Sam.

Hi, We need a scammel axle on a double pallet moved from Cornwall to south London. But organized from Oz. It is big/heavy enough to be professionally moved, probably. Suggestions? Is there a web site in UK that links transporters to jobs-to-be-moved? Thanks. Have a nice day. Sam.

Hi all, I'm in Australia and own (as of yesterday) 3 kw573s, albiet two are basket cases. There are at least 3 more I know of, 1 is in a collection in Melbourne (John Belfield), plus another that was cut up for scrap only 15 years ago, despite my efforts to buy what was left of it. Australians are great for working their vehicles into the ground, so mostly they are pretty poor. As for differences between WLF Series 5 and KW573, from memory, including what has been mentioned in earlier posts: - the shape of the radiator shell and brush guard. This is far less pronounced than in earlier models, not even noticeable in a casual look. - the WLF whiffle tree is fabricated, the KW whiffle tree is all cast. Hang on, I'll check that when I get home in a few days, it certainly looks cast even from close up. - the toolboxes on the rear body, under the boom are a completely different design. These tool boxes shown in TM9-796 (I think) are KW boxes, quite different to the WLF boxes commonly seen on European trucks. - the 'mechanics' tool box, mounted on the drivers side front end of the rear body is, I only suspect, also different between KW and WLF. The KW box, as shown in TM9-796 is made by Plomb. They turn up VERY occasionally. I don't know about the box I usually see in modern European pictures. From memory, WLF built about 4500 M1/M1A1s and KW built about 500 units. I'm told that the Australian Army received about 30 M1/M1A1 trucks, some of which were used right up into the mid 1970s! All Kenworths. As I am away from home, all this is from my not-always-real-good memory. (don't laugh, your turn is coming!!!) Hope it helps. Have a nice day. Sam.

Here is a bit more M1A1 tool box info, the welding tool box which is mounted on top of the crane tower, presumably as you need to get up there to put the gauges onto the bottles. See the short reference to it at http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=159540&hilit=tool+box+kenworth&start=165 at the bottom of the page. Enjoy. Sam.

Yes, you'd be welcome to them. There is nothing wrong with BSW/BSF, or Metric, or UNF/UNC. But the major pain is when they are mixed.:nut:

I am in Australia (now metric), am rebuilding a USA truck (UNF/UNC), but finding a lot of old standard (BSW/BSF {fromthe mother country!}) bolts/nuts/threads. So I am always juggling these. I avoid BSW/BSF like the plague as it needs its' own set of spanners, and is not right for USA stuff. I throw even new ones in the scrap. The chart below is something I very frequently consult. A thread pitch gauge is also invaluable to me. Except for 1/2", BSW and UNC are more-or-less interchangeable on low tech stuff, eg frame/chassis fittings. There is only 5 deg difference in the thread form. If your threads are not BSW or BSF or UNF or UNC or metric coarse or metric fine, then someone has used a specialist thread on a non-specialist frame, eg, conduit, or cycle, or optic, or pipe or . . . . Change it to the common thread of the day! From one who has been caught a few times! Sam, downunder.

Hi Sam, I am also playing with my 969 fuel tank and associated bits and pieces. Part of that has been running the gauntlet of finding replacement small parts, particularly piping fittings and bolts/screws. You mentioned BSP several times. Being a US manufactured vehicle, it was originally fitted with NP/NC/NF fittings throughout, which are not always entirely compatible with British standard. eg, the thread for the drain plugs in the fuel tank is 3/8"NP, not BSP, close but different TPI. Yes, you can make them fit. I can only source some NP fittings locally, and so may have to do that. Same goes for the bolts that hold the fuel tank sender unit in place, they are 10-32NF. I have no idea what is even close to that in British series. Anyway. See my thread on g503.com if interested. Same user name. But nice work. Sam, downunder.

Hey desertman, nice to see your truck turning a wheel, albiet not very far. And thanks for the picture. What have you done on it recently? Sherminator, I thought the placement of the pioneer tool rack on your truck was interesting, similar to a GMC. Do you know if that was a standard placement or a one-off? Is that an M1A1 wrecker I see lurking in the background? Have a nice day, Sam.

Hi Sam, I can't open your attachments. Says the link doesn't work. Sam, downunder.