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unionjack

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  1. Thanks Mike. I can't see how a seal on the cap could possibly work against the top of a castleated nut. Localised boiling - My rad has been re-cored, but today I heard what seemed to be boiling inside block or rad with the engine idling. So, maybe. I'm tempted to have an overflow pipe fitted into the neck and ditch this system.
  2. I can understand why a dodgy valve may allow some leakage under braking etc. I can't see why it would cause heavy frothing out of the cap, seemingly in cycles of several minutes. When the cap is removed, with engine running, I can observe the water level rising and falling by quite a bit. What could make it surge like that?
  3. I've looked in the manual, looked at the diagram, read the threads on here, and STILL can't get my head around this valve system in the neck. Give me am overflow tube and normal cap any day. I have a lot of water frothing out of the cap, to the extent that it's not driveable, sprays all over the drivers side windscreen. First job is to sort out this valve business. I have a spring, sleeve, and locking ring with rubber seal beneath. The spring is very rusty and weak, I have no idea how stiff they should be, but I guess I need a new one first. Rubber seal on locking ring is not all that bad, sleeve looks fine. Cap has no seal, should it have? The filler neck has many cracks so the cap can not be screwed down very tight, but I assume it doesn't need to be? The main thing is, I'd dearly love to know exactly how it works.
  4. Hello, Not had chance to give it a road run yet sorry. It starts immediately now and runs well. Coil feels hot to me though. Before I dare drive it I'm going to fix a second coil alongside the existing one so I can just swap the wires across if it conks out on me.
  5. Okay, I had the points at 10 thou and the plugs at 30 thou. After reading the 1944 manual I increased the plugs to 40 thou, (as it says to do), neither setting made any difference.
  6. Sorry for the confusion, I was answering an earlier post to yours Richard. I did consider distributor earth so attached a new wire to a points mounting screw, passed through a hole drilled in the body, and took it straight to earth at the battery as a test. It made no discernable difference.
  7. Thanks, I'll look at that, I spotted a couple of earths in the engine bay that could be better, one near the generator. Weird though, to me if a battery lead is good enough to pass about 400 amps to the starter it's good enough to trickle a little bit of current to the coil! I'll have to have a look at it running in the dark to check for spark leakage.
  8. Negative earth, coil is correctly wired. Points gap 10 thou, plug gap 40 thou, timing spot on. Now idling very well. But coil too hot and cuts out after a while and will not re-start. After pouring cold water over the coil it will fire straight up again. Coil is a standard 12v from a specialist who confirmed with me it was for a non-ballast system. The previous 12v coil acted exactly the same. My next step is to fit a ballast resistor to see what happens.
  9. Reviving this thread to ask if you fixed the problem, and if so, how? My OYD was cutting out after short runs. I fitted a new standard 12v coil and moved it off the engine block where it was mounted previously. Had it ticking over and it cut out after about 20 mins from stone cold. Coil was very hot. Points and condensor are okay. Leads and caps are quite recent.
  10. W.P.G. Make the only repro. "O.A." (not "O.R." in the R.A.F.!) shirts. As well as police, old British Fire service shirts are pretty good, you just have to remove the pockets and epaulettes.
  11. Yes, that's the one, never seen a Greek to '37 pat myself and only ever seen Dutch in green. Must have varied.
  12. Dutch aren't a bad match for Canadian BD but the Greek BD matches nothing used by Commonwealth forces in WW2. It is however, quite close to British 1946 pattern.
  13. That's interesting. I recently saw an example of the first collar-attached type, the one without pockets, that was dated 1948 too. Maybe we've about pinned down the date of the change-over.
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