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Jimmy60

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  1. Clive, Well noted and I will do the testing to see if I do have spares in working condition. Meanwhile I really want to thank you so much for your support !!! Very honestly I think that I would have gave up since long if not feeling pushed by you on my research. I really learnt that patience is a key, and step by step approach a good solution, if not the only one. Your documentation and knowledge is a real bible and you can be sure that I will strongly advertise it on the French Forum I participate for my friends that have old FFR Series or Light. If not that far I would have come to pay a beer !!!! Thanks again for all the help !!! Jimmy
  2. I think I made some good progress today : Whne reassembling the brush assembly, I noticed that one was not really in the good side. The little cable for connection was kind of blocking the spring pressure. So I put it back ans I think it changed the pressure that was exercised on the e brush. I then reassemble everything and guess what : I had light at the charging light and the ammeters are moving !!!! So I measured the voltage at choke level and had 28,5 to 29 V and around 27,4 at batteries level: around almost 2 V more than when checking the batteries alone. But : as a there is always a but ! When I start the car, the needle of ammeter goes significantly to the right showing that it is charging, but comes back to almost 0 almost immediately. then if I run the engine at a higher speed, it doesn't move anymore, but remains higher than 0 levé,..... should the the needle of the ammeter have a movement link to the level of acceleration of the engine or not ? is it that as far as it looks like charging it is ok ? I would like to know more about the behaviour I should expect from the ammeter. same from the voltage at batteries level. It looks like I have a permaent Superior voltage at batteries level when the engine runs, idepently form engine sped..... thanks for stour advises heers jimmy
  3. Hi, Findings of the day : Resistance at the slip ring level : around 15,2 and 15,5 depending the contact point. When I put back the brush assembly and mesure at the little wire connectors or the screw I have around 17,8 and 19,8 And when I mesure at the U & V pins I have above 21 to 24...... I had no reading at pin level 2 days ago...... I guess the good news is that I have the correct resistance at the slip ring level ! The brushes were changed recently and their length remains within tolerance. I did clean the rings but may be not enough ? What else should I do from here ? As surely I do not have the good required resistance at pin level. Thanks for the advice. Cheers Jimmy
  4. Ok Clive, will check the reading at the slip ring. wich I have not done yet. Only at the pin level. And I can recall that the pin U or V was shaking a bit and the reading (when I had it) was moving from a figure to another. I may have to look at the connector on the generator at a later stage depending on the findings on the slip ring. Will try to do that today. cheers jimmy
  5. Hi, so i made some new checks and must admit I am now a bit confused. weeks ago I had something like 24,5 V between the chokes in the control panel as an output from the generator. But discovered that I had a spring broken at the brush level when measuring the resistance between pin U & V. I changed the brushes, had again 24,5 V between the chokes. Last week I rechecked the resistance between pin U & V as mentioned above and noticed no reading. checked today the brushes, they are ok. Cleaned the split ring. They look ok to me. i still have no reading on the meter, even if at a point of time it went up to above 170 ohms.... after cleaning I had 32, then 17 and then nothing again. when checking the output at the chokes I now have 1 V....... I checked it with 2 different harness..... The 24V output I had was on the former control panel box..... i just changed it recently thinking it could be the reason of the fault..... i would probably need to check again with the former box ?? Anyway, I am really suspecting now a fault at the generator level..... i have 2 generator control panel, 2 mais harness..... and it still doesn't charge the batteries.... If brushes are ok and split ring as well, it means that the generator is faulty no ? cheers Jimmy
  6. Clive, The spring was changed at the same time I changed the brushes. But I may have done something wrong. Stupid question may be but I can chack the resistance between U & V before re-assambling everything ? Will do that tonight or tomorrow morning. Jimmy
  7. Just check the U & V pin at generator level as mentionned in previous threads. I had made this check weeks a go and already had no reading, so checked the carbon brusches and discovered that one of the maintaining spring was broken. All this was changed and I must admit that I didn't recheck after changing the brisches and the spring. I took for granted that this problem was resolved. I was more concentrating on the voltage delivered between the chokes..... Anyway, checking agin this morning I have no reading between U & V Pins !!!! Do you recommend I check again the brushes ?? And dismantle the cover again ? Could it be another problem ? This is a surprise to me. Jimmy
  8. TClive the picture will surelly be of help, thanks a lot. Looking at it, I think I am too far from that. only 2 leads to put back correctly. And this one looks much more in line with your diagram. Will try to do that this evening. Next step will be the new main harness that is confirmed on its way (it's a 17 Ft long, so I guess it's ok). In case it is not hte good one, I found some supplier in france that have new and second hand ones, so I still have a solution in case. hopefully I am touching the solution. Cheers Jimmy
  9. Clive, During my investigation, I did some checkes and I did change the fuse as it was blown off. It is only after the second reading of your document that I realised it was pointless...... (I had a lot of hoe in first instance !!!)
  10. In fact on the picture, we can see that the blue cable connected to the upper side of the vehicle shunt does not come from the panel as it should be. It is coming from the bundle of cables that goes back to the vehicle..... So I put them back as per the diagram in fact.... will try to make a comparaison of the 2 !
  11. When i Checked the cabling of the blue unipren cables, i realized they were not in line with your diagram in page 57. In fact I had to identify them from the end of the harness and the end in the box. There was a mix mainly from the ones coming from the panel in fact that were wronlgy connected. It is not easy to check on this picture as well but I will try to put the corresponding letter on each cable from the panel onto the picture to illustrate what I am saying. In any case, thanks again for the help !!! Jimmy
  12. The lead I mentionned earlier is the one in the red box. I am wondering where it should be connected, as normaly here goes the lead for the Ammeter...... Or it is at the right place and goes with the ead of the ammeter ? (but it would differ from the sketch on page 57 of the doc) The leads in the green box are the ones I moved back to the shunt on the right hand side.
  13. Clive, My mistake, when I mentionned the "red line" I was refering to the red line drawn on the picture on page 57 of the document. Will post a picture. Jimmy
  14. Clive, I mean that the ignition is not working at all. In fact I have no more "contact" as we say in French. Exactly like if I dissconnect the batteries. So I am really wondering where this should be connected..... it looks to me that this lead is part of the supply, and kind of closing the circuit ? Shold i try to connect just under the shunt ?
  15. Clive, For the main harness I tested it with a multimeter on ohms only. I pulled gently the connectors and they were all ok. Nevertheless, I am not too confident in the main harness and found one to buy yesterday. It should be on the way soon. At least I will have a spare one..... A quick one on the shunt box : I tested the Ammeters yesterday evening and the needle is moving as per your advice. But both Ammeter and wired together at theirs leads. And both of them were connected to the Radio Batteries shunt.... This I noticed over the weekend already and plug them back to the vehicle batteires shunt. (it didn't change anything, they were not moving). But I also have another Lead that is connected to the vehicle batteries shunt..... my understanding in your document is that only the leads for the ammeter are connected to both end of the shunt.... If I remove this lead, I simply have no more ignition....... I suspect it is the lead that goes to the vehicle batteries (red line on the picture in the doc).... Do you think this could create a problem in the overall circuit ? Cheers Jimmy
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