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teletech

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teletech last won the day on September 5 2020

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    California, USA
  • Interests
    MV, vintage computers, old Saabs
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    telescope mechinican

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  1. While not a warehouse full, the lads out in Poland seem to have found a large handful and stuck them up on Epay. I went ahead and bought a few because... well I thought I had a reason at the time. 🙂
  2. Yes, if he needs the extending base then yours would be a good start. Then just the seat on top.
  3. Be aware there are at least two generations of driver-seat that use different backs, frames, and bottoms. I think I got a NOS new-style driver-seat bottom from XMOD a while back.
  4. Sadly, the gun on my Scorpion met with a torch as part of bringing it across the ocean, but I'd love for it to at least look correct and function well enough to form the basis for a t-shirt cannon, and so I need some dimensions. I guess the first place to start is does anyone have a set of prints for the breech assembly? Failing that, knowing how long it is from front to back to a reasonable precision, say .010" would be enough to give me a running start. Thanks,
  5. So, is there any list of which guns fought where? For instance, a list of LRDG guns by serial No. or which guns went to the Spanish Federalists. There were few enough made, and certainly few enough survive that they deserve to have their own history if it's findable. I'm trying to decide between a 37MM Bofors (converted to 50DTC for legal reasons) or a Lahti L/39 (same). The Bofors has a bigger wow factor, but is kinda silly in such a tiny chambering where the Lahti is at least sort-of manageable and might even cycle in 50.
  6. I guess if the MOD wants to send me a set of upgraded final drives for safety's sake, I would be willing to change mine out.
  7. SLS has improved miles in the last few years. At this point they are making flyable commercial aircraft parts, surgical implants, and a host of other end-use parts and I think you can have a decent machine for a hundred grand. The hundred grand might only get you a bound-powder-fusion machine that prints metal parts you then bake to final form (remember shrinky-dink toys?). You wouldn't need even a 4-axis CNC, just cut the cavity, flip it over and cut the exterior. Aluminum should be about 3 hours machine-time with setup if you don't need the contour lines to be too perfect. All that said, printing a pattern and having one (or several and help others out) cast from that pattern would be the most authentic way to do it and still likely the cheapest... IF you can find someone to pour you some metal without making a big production out of it. I've had luck getting an artist who works in cast metal make small parts.
  8. I notice the CVR(T) are so naturally stealthy that one has started to camouflage itself with small bits of tree even with such a short jaunt. 🙂 I also notice somebody has their engine decks partly off. Improves cooling and access for maintenance I'm sure.
  9. That's a loooong document to say what it actually said, which is basically: The bins and particularly the larger bins of the later models represent a hazard to the driver when head-out. Not running the side bins doesn't quite completely eliminate the hazard, but it looks close. Training is lacking and if you snag a barrel of a turreted CVR(T) on something while the driver is head-out, it could be almost instantly fatal. Your intercom should be working and the commander and/or gunner should let the driver know of any potential barrel obstacle. Dangerous things are dangerous. There is an issue with the final drives where the MOD isn't comfortable with CVR(T) on the roads these days unless they have had upgraded final drives. Also there are many of these vehicles in private hands on the roads with the final drives the MOD is concerned about and perhaps that should be more widely addressed. This last detail is almost a throw-away blurb but might be the most significant to those owning post-release vehicles. It seems anything not retrofitted to the 2019 standard of final drive could be a hazard. What wasn't clear was if that applies only to repowered units (due to the increased torque of the diesel engine) and old petrol-power units are fine or if it's a universal risk. It might also be that the risk is to vehicles that have been up-armored and weigh a lot more than original, or perhaps you need both more weight AND a repower to be a hazard. More information would be helpful. It also suggests that if someone in power sees this, it might end the sale of complete old-spec CVR(T) to the public. I can't imagine there will be any left once stocks are donated to Ukraine anyway.
  10. I know the forum population is predominately made up of folks who can't have live semiauto rifles, folks who can have originally select-fire rifles once modified to semi-auto, and some folks who can have the real-deal, but for the slice of the members who are in the USA (or similar?), I have a question: DSA has bought and/or made receivers in inch-pattern, metric, hybrid, forged, and cast of varying quality. Specifically I'm wondering about one marked L1A1 with the DSA markings inside the magwell and a serial number A-xxxx. Any details folks might have would be very welcome.
  11. Thanks for the confirmation of my suspicions! Any chance you could photograph the cable and cable routing so I could duplicat-ish it?
  12. A lead acid battery is sustaining damage any time it's under about 80% charge, that damage accelerates as the charge nears zero, so you've lost some capacity and remaining service life, but the odds are good that it will recover enough to be serviceable in it's application. If you have a battery desulfator or desulfating charger that will help bring it back and if you charge it and discharge it a few times that will help it's capacity recover as well.
  13. "Oh, so we can't have nice things." Sigh. My M35 was actually a REO and a gasser to boot. That old continental motor was extremely quiet but got about 3MPG. Loaded sand trucks would pass me uphill.
  14. It's pretty easy to see and smell the change as you go from water to fuel, plus you want to drain into a pan anyway so if you do drain some petrol you can just pour it off the top. I do recommend adding a tap so you can drain it slowly rather than having to remove a plug and then put it back in while things are draining. Obviously it's more convenient and safer to do the separation before even adding the fuel to the vehicle, then you can either drain out the water at the bottom or use an electric pump or siphon to pull the de-watered fuel off the top of the separation vessel. It is worth remembering of course that the alcohol is an octane booster, so removing it will hurt your octane rating, but if you are using the resulting petrol in a military vehicle with a compressing ratio of ~7:1, it's not going to matter.
  15. OK, since someone thought $44K USD wasn't silly, how about a less complete one with a lot less rare CES for $70K USD!? https://www.ebay.com/itm/235135574876
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