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QL Driver

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QL Driver last won the day on December 9 2017

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  • Location
    Los Angeles area, California (ex-pat Brit)
  • Interests
    Steam engines, Great War era vehicles, aircraft
  • Occupation
    Materials characterisation for spacecraft

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  1. This is very picky, I know, but isn’t the wire routed such that tightening actually loosens the screws? Some alternative approaches here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/48566.html
  2. On the bearing note - the Garrett steam wagon (designed in 1920-1921) runs on Timken bearings on the axles, countershaft and crankshaft. Many are still standard sizes! We’ve never had a moment’s trouble with the bearings - many on the wagon are originals - and I believe it was the case in their working lives, too.
  3. We had the same thing happen with a front tyre on the Garrett (it was an old band that had been pressed off, had the rubber removed and polyurethane put on); on the road the band slid over about half way. The canvas between the wheel and band entirely resolved it. Some of the dismal tyre stories are related here: https://www.steamwagon.com/index.php/garrett-2/solid-rubber-tyres
  4. Looking at the photo below, it looks to me like it's correct as fitted.
  5. That’s a lovely item! I think the accessories can add so much to a restoration. Robert Mikesh, in “Restoring Museum Aircraft” refers to having used microcrystalline wax on the paint of the Wright Flyer engine to allow the original finish to be preserved whilst still allowing repainting. Perhaps a thin coating of wax could be used on the dial and then the red repainted over it? If you want to restore the finish you melt the wax off and the original finish is intact underneath.
  6. Looks great, Ben! What is the speedo you have fitted?
  7. These photos are about 25 years old, so not necessarily representative of their current state!
  8. I rather like the Devon CC livery! The WD livery would presumably have to be a guess (and Michael Wilkinson’s is already painted that way), and we’ve already established that it has the wrong body for the WD days.
  9. McMaster Carr sells a 5/16"-20 die. https://www.mcmaster.com/26005A116.
  10. Progress continues with the Knox - in fact, I (briefly) saw it for the first time in person on Friday 13th. I didn’t have a chance to take any pictures, though. As mentioned it’s an impressively large beast! Any photos would be interesting, thank you! I’ll send you a private message with my email address, Rod.
  11. Presumably it’s possible that it was built with the Wilkins patent gear, and was then fitted with the screw tipping gear post war?
  12. The way that they are made (as I understand it) is that a ring of the approx OD required is rolled, and the band is set concentrically within it. The polyurethane is then poured into the resulting gap and left to cure. The tyre is then put in a lathe and turned to the desired profile. Lettering is certainly something that is missing from almost all new tyres (I think the only company that does them with lettering is Coker Tire in Tennessee. I'll have a chat with my polymers materials engineering friends at work and I'll see if I can find something out about suitable adhesives to bond to a polyurethane. The thing I'm always a bit wary of is that if you use the tyres frequently, then I'd expect that the lettering could start to fall off.
  13. It's worth looking at polyurethane tyres as an option. We had some front tyres done by Jobel Engineering in Cornwall for our Garrett wagon. They removed the original rubber from the bands, and cast new tyres for about half the price that rubber tyres were quoted at. They've been very satisfactory on the front of the Garrett with no signs of deterioration - as you no doubt know, undertype wagons are notoriously hard on their front tyres. I believe others here (including the Gosling family) have used them too and have been satisfied. I also strongly advocate making sure you get new tyres made on bands, rather than attached directly to the wheels. They look better, and you also have the option to swap tyres much more easily (as they can be pressed on and off).
  14. I like your approach of keeping the Garrett pump; as it's part of the working history of the wagon, I think it would be a shame to revert to "factory new". Have you had a chance to get your wagon together with Mike Brown's ex-DCC Garrett yet? As far as the Garrett and Fowler - I'm going to be flying over on Wednesday and hoping to get a good 5-6 days of work in on the wagon and trailer. Ed
  15. Does your Foden still have the water pump off a Garrett overtype wagon fitted to it?
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