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sexton

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sexton last won the day on June 26 2018

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  • Location
    Whitby, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    All things mechanical.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical engineer

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  1. Tim, you sent me the manual on gunnery so I could scan them and return, remember? They’re the only reason I got the traverse working, I owe you! Got stab working for a bit then it just up and quit. With no spare control boxes, I gave up for the sake of my sanity! Regards, Malcolm
  2. Found this thread because I have the same problem on our new-to-us Dingo, ie good idle but backfired and quit when any throttle applied. I checked timing and found it too retarded. Set it at 12 degrees btdc (figure that’s ok with modern gas) and that fixed the backfire and quitting, but not the major off-idle bog. I took the carb apart before I noticed this and found accel pump diaphragms in good shape but no spring in the pump! Found a spring in my stash but it may be too weak, so that may be cause. But it feels more like an off-idle transfer port problem to me since it bogs so dramatically as soon as the engine comes off idle. This is earlier than I would expect accel pump to kick in. I checked the manuals I have, and found info on the carb is poor. Cross section does not show an off idle transfer port and I didn’t think to check when I had it apart. So perhaps the accel pump is also designed to compensate for off idle demand? Low float level is a possibility but I’ve always found the idle circuit insensitive to float level. It’s the main circuit that shows this first. Engine revs happily to redline once past bog. I’ll take carb apart again, check for a plugged off idle port, and try a stronger accel pump spring. Dingo still has mechanical fuel pump which seems to work ok, because when I crack banjo bolt at carb, I get a good squirt of gas. But it could also be a good source of rubber debris if it’s old. Malcolm
  3. Hi, Tim, just found this. Good to see you on here, it’s a great forum. Thanks again for your help with our Cent. We got power traverse working reliably but couldn’t get STAB to work. Shame. Malcolm
  4. Hi, Kiscsepi, I specifically need logic and wiring diagrams for the auto loader. I don’t believe the T55 has an auto loader. Thanks, Malcolm
  5. John, we have some translated manuals, but only for the operation of the tank. They don't include detailed wiring diagrams or summaries of the control logic. Those would be in a somewhat specialized manual for the techs troubleshooting auto loader problems. I had a hard time finding this kind of stuff for the Cent and the Chieftain. I suspect translated manuals are just not out there for Russian stuff Malcolm
  6. Hi, we (Ontario Regiment Museum in Canada) have acquired a T72, apparently an old one, circa 1973. She's not in bad shape. I'd like to get the autoloader functioning even at the risk of museum members losing limbs. But I know from working on Centurion and Chieftain gun control elecronics that wiring diagrams and an explanation of the logic is pretty well mandatory to do that. Anyone know of any translated manuals on this subject? Thanks, Malcolm
  7. Juan Carlos, the way I find top dead centre on a side valve engine is to use a large zip tie. I called this a tie wrap in my earlier posts but zip tie is the more common term. Google zip tie to see what I mean. Slide the large head of the zip tie into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over by hand. The piston will hit the head of the zip tie before it reaches TDC and will stop. Using a paint pen, mark that point on the harmonic balancer or fan pulley and also mark a stationary point on the crankcase. Then turn the engine the opposite direction from the way it normally turns until the piston stops when it hits the zip tie. Mark that point on the pulley relative to the mark on the crankcase. The point exactly half way between these two marks on the pulley is TDC. Malcolm
  8. Despite valiant efforts by some members to clarify oil requirements, I still can’t figure out what best modern oil would suit the L60 in the above tank. The old girl will only do about 10 miles a year (museum tank days), so I suspect it’s not that critical. It seems OMD 90 is what I need. And I believe that’s a 10W30 high detergent diesel rated multigrade. Is that right? Since we only run these tanks for any length of time in the warmer months, I think we could get away with Shell Rotella T 15W40, which is very available round here. Any comments? Thanks, Malcolm
  9. Thanks, Tiffy. Just removing engine, so we’ll keep track of shims. Still waiting for crane! Malcolm
  10. Yes, I volunteer there. Get to work on lots of vehicles! Glad you enjoyed the weekend. We squeezed another one in this September with somewhat restricted attendance. It was our best yet, I think. The outside reenactors and pyrotechnics were amazing. malcolm
  11. Hi, Phil. Good videos! I see you are a fan of headlights. I don’t understand why the other old coots here with poor low light vision like me don’t use them! On the topic of CMP’s, we recently got a really nice welding version. Ford V8 as the main engine, and another Ford V8 in the back powering a big old Lincoln welder! We can’t find any documentation on the welding side, especially the unusual multiple governors on the V8 carb. Ever seen any? Thanks, Malcolm
  12. Sitting waiting for an engine stand to be fabricated by our in-house welder. We have a couple of spare engines so he’s copying the stands they are on. Looks pretty straight forward. Crane-wise, we have a nice donated truck-mounted boom crane but the operator is a working guy and can’t make it down here at the drop of a hat. We have a few Chieftain parts but I don’t think we have the nice lifting rig with the 4 turnbuckles. We may use 4 1-ton chain-falls instead so we can keep the engine nice and level. We’re not in a hurry. It’s a winter project. The weather here pretty well shuts us down, so we can’t do the tank days and battle re-enactments we do in the warmer weather. We have a 432. Not a large vehicle so I’m impressed the 432 can lift 3 tons! They are nice vehicles. Though a bit inferior to the M113’s we have, IMO.😎 malcolm
  13. Good luck, Paul! We’ve got ours ready to go, just waiting for a crane. Malcolm
  14. Thanks for replies, guys. I’m not going into this cold! 😎 I have all kinds of info, job guides, and procedures on pack removal and installation. It was the turret position I was wondering about. Couldn’t find any reference to it. As John said, I found gun left, bit closer to rear than 90 degrees might be ok. But it’ll be a tight squeeze. Another two questions: (a) do I need to drain oil tank? The instructions don’t say to do this, but the return pipe from the scavenge pump goes into the tank well below the oil level, so draining would be necessary to remove hose. Or does it go above oil level inside the tank? I see the Pressure pump supply comes from the top of the tank so removing its hose just drains the small amount in the standpipe. (b) where are alignment shims? Under engine or transmission? Thanks, Malcolm
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