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Tharper

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Tharper last won the day on May 16 2018

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  1. Hello Andy, curiously its actually the opposite. When an engine is running rich the mixture is fuel rich and air poor so combustion is much slower. That long burn allows more cylinder wall to be exposed to the combustion heat during the power stroke and thus more heat is transferred to the block and coolant. If its really rich the burn can carry into the exhaust stroke thus heating the manifold above what it normally would be. If you have primer cups its fairly easy to see what the mixture is doing. With the motor running and up to temp open one of the primer cups and observe the color of the flame. If its red and sooty than the mixture is too rich. If its pale yellow than its too lean. A nice blue flame is what you are looking for. It's a quick and easy method to see whats going on. Here is a demo using the Museum's 1928 Lombard dump truck, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylRn2qy3T7U Also of course the timing can make it run hot as well. All good fun right? Best regards, Terry
  2. Hello Bob, Yes, those are valve covers. I lucked out and found a fairly un-molested set in Don's stash of parts. I can measure one of mine to see if they are the same size as yours. The best bet would be to have then cast then machined. If I remember correctly Don used a metal detector on me to make sure I wasn't spiriting choice parts away! (LOL)
  3. Very, very nice Bob! I am amazed how fast this project has progressed. Can't wait to see the old beast in action. Best regards, Terry
  4. On this side of the big pond Freeman Supply offers wax fillet material available in strips and various sizes. as well as the application tools. They also offer leather fillet material. https://www.freemansupply.com/search?q=FILLET WAX
  5. Hello Bob, Yes, if I can find a suitable starter! It was OEM equipment for the beast. Here is a photo of a factory starter setup on a Wisconsin "AM" which is the marine version.
  6. Fantastic Bob! Well done! It sounds wonderful! Terry
  7. Bob, That all looks fantastic! Its great to see the valve shrouds and clips in place and so glad we could help! I am looking forward to sharing the photos with my students. I really love these projects! Best regards, Terry
  8. Steve, Nice work on the pattern! I am glad the "Donut" method worked for you! Rather than having to cut the patterns in half and worry about fudging it - what I do is glue the halves together with a piece of brown wrapping paper in between before turning. It holds the halves together while you shape them and finish them. Then they are easily split apart using a knife to gently pry with. Since all the pieces of the pattern are done this way you are assured to follow the part line exactly. In the photo below you can see one of the halves of the thru pipe with some of the paper still attached after splitting. In this case I only needed to hold the two halves of stock together for turning in the lathe. To the right you can see the turned stock for the small core prints - they too were temporarily held together with a strip of brown paper in between. Again, fantastic work! Best regards, Terry
  9. 1914. That very well could be Brake H.P. as opposed to gross. A period test on a 1915 Stutz chassis listed an average BHP of 47.8 @ 1,235 rpm. Max. Torque was 209 ft/lbs. @ 1,052 RPM.
  10. Looking at the specs for the Wisconsin "B" Bore: 4-1/4" Stroke: 5" The bores are offset from the crank centerline by 3/4" towards the exhaust side. Total weight: 475 lbs HP. (ALAM rating) 28.9 hp The ALAM ratings are archaic and its hard to convert to anything meaningful. A graph within the same Wisconsin catalog show approx. 46 hp @ 1,600 rpm In their day they were indeed light, perky engines and when coupled to a minimalist chassis such as the Bearcat you had a real thrilling ride. No doubt lightening the flywheel and playing with the carb and timing would help as well. A twin spark setup was a hot ticket and was well worth the effort. However, like most low rpm engines back then it wasn't about horsepower but torque. I don't have the figures for the model "B" but my 6 cylinder PT generates just shy of 600 ft/lbs at 800 rpm yet is rated at only 104 hp. I am loving watching this project come together! Best regards, Terry
  11. Bob, That's all good news! Wisconsin made a quality product! That valve guide looks great! I had to replace all mine and the valves as well. One of the seats was sunk about a 1/16 of an inch from being ground very, very frequently back in the day. T.
  12. Great work! A piece of rubber under the patch will do. I have a very large (vintage) patch like this on my big Wisconsin. (a large portion of the bottom of the cast aluminum oil pan was smashed out at one time) If any one asks just tell them its a bullet hole from back in the day.
  13. Nice work! Another trick you can do with the paper gasket is give it a quick coat of shellac just before you do the assembly when its still wet - this makes a nice seal and makes the gasket more durable. When I disassembled my big Wisconsin T-head many of the gaskets were original and done this way including under the blocks , the oil pan and the timing gear cover.
  14. A while back my students reverse engineered a magneto coupling used on early Wisconsin engines. Here is a rendering of the assembly. The disk is leather. The splined hub is keyed to the input shaft the eared coupling is keyed onto the magneto. I am not sure if this would help but its an alternative. We have a set of shop drawings and a set of patterns as well. Best regards, Terry
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