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fv1609 last won the day on February 17
fv1609 had the most liked content!
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63 ExcellentAbout fv1609
- Birthday 04/01/1914
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Location
GB-CMN (formerly UK91)
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Homepage
http://www.shorlandsite.com/
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fv1609 started following Sankey advice
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FV84923 same as on Humber 1 ton
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Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Hmm it wasn't meant to be taken sarcastically, I'm surprised you think that. It was intended as a polite suggestion of what may have taken place. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
See my PS You are now well placed to help out some poor soul who has the same problem. Most of us only are only knowledgeable as the result of things going wrong & having to sort it out. Being now elderly I have had ample time to pick on all these problems! -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Brighter lights & running ok with the heater has nothing to directly do with the ignition system. But glad it is better than before. PS It might have a lot to do with your battery terminal being done up tighter now. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Yes the radio batteries terminals are live when charging ie with engine running & switches it in parallel with the vehicle batteries. Not running the radio terminals are isolated. Yes I've had tingles through "insulation" on HT cable. That seems a rather long length of cable, I didn't know what arrangement you had assumed you were using the original screened cable. So I would reduce the length of cable as its weight bouncing around will tug at the connections. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Trouble is once you shorten the end then when you come to fit the correct DZS4A distributor (caution there are many types) you will have to replace the whole inner cable & terminate it the other end in the connector. Yes you will get a shock & bear in mind a spark like that in air can jump about 1 cm so it shows the HT is working! Although the existing end of cable termination is not ideal the important thing is it doesn't wobble around or fall out. Even if there is a gap don't assume it will give a poorer HT output because these screw in spark enhancers are basically a pair of self-taping screws facing head to head with a gap! -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Yes I see a wire has been pushed into cable centre & held by the hole in the cable. That hole is left over from pointed screw in the original distributor to penetrate the insulation to touch the centre conductor. If it is snug fit push it back in, but the hazards of modifications from original fit I'm afraid. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Excellent news! In the article I mentioned that the expected 10V reduces to 9V after 10 mins or so. PS Would have been better to have just taken the negative lead off on the "lower" battery so if it the spanner touched any metalwork there would be no sparking/melting. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Not meant to be a smug answer but a good example of the value of having a battery isolating switch in the earth lead of the "lower" battery. Make sure you now disconnect the negative terminal of at least the "lower" battery then file the lumpy bits off the terminal. You ought to check voltage of the both batteries under some sort of load. Just using a voltmeter is of limited value. Reconnect the batteries, put a load on by turning on the headlights and ensure you have a fairly equal reading of at least 12V on each battery individually. If the headlights are dim you will need to charge one or both batteries, depending on your voltmeter readings. As a general principle try to have a pair of batteries of identical type & age. If you don't then you'll end up with one battery never being charged fully. One battery can't get charged preferentially to the other as they are in series & both carry the same current. From time to time might be worth giving each battery an individual 12V charge to try to maintain a balance. Avoid tapping off the "lower" 12V to run a radio, lights etc as this drains one battery more than the other. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
The more nervous you are, the greater will be the satisfaction when it all works! -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Make sure that the windings are as parallel as possible. You can see how a slight sag as it heats up could short out a turn & repeat the original problem. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
As Marvin Gaye sang "There ain't nothing like the real thing" Could be the answer to your prayers & very cheap considering the scarcity. Never seen NOS ones for sale before. https://www.lmslichfieldltd.com/epages/BT4011.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4011/Products/"electrical store 93B" -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
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Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Yes, a flat battery or the ignition coil overheats & explodes. -
Series 3 109 ffr failed ignition ballast resistor
fv1609 replied to 109ffr's topic in British Vehicles
Yes But don't leave it on & not running for more than a minute or so.