The Auck

Looking for a Universal Carrier T16 project. Something that has running gear, steering mechanism and lower body tub.

Does anyone know the internal sizes of the rear body on the Marmon Simca Sumb please?

Just to let you know I will be at Stoneleigh on Sunday (3rd Feb'19) and will have vehicle parts. Ford V8 gearbox and nos radiator as well as Carrier parts. Pop along for a chat to Stall 27 & 28 in Hall2 Nigel Bottomless Sporran

I am trying to find the name of the gent who bought a WW1 stretcher for his friends WW1 motorcycle sidecar from my stall at Stoneleigh earlier this year. He asked me if I could take it down to War and Peace in Folkestone, which I did, but he didn't appear to collect it so I brought it all the way back up to Scotland. Anyone know someone who is into WW1 motorcycles? Nigel Bottomless Sporran

At Stoneleigh in January this year I sold a WW1 stretcher to a gent for a friends motorcycle sidecar. He asked me to take it to War and Peace Revival in Folkestone which I did. Unfortunately no one came to collect it and I brought it home. Does anyone know who this gent might be as I have lost his details at the moment. Thanks Nigel

OK thanks.

Does anyone know where I can get in the UK square topped u bolts and plates for holding the backbody onto my truck chassis? Nigel

Going down as usual, selling off bits of my vehicle parts and other military pieces. Have some CMP bits and may have sprockets for Scorpion or Spartan. Stall 29 and 30 come and say hello. Nigel

Up here in my neck of the woods when I started in the world of military vehicles there was a story which carried in the newspapers. It was of a Covenanter, I think, that had sunk down in a bog during 1940 after a training exercise when it broke down. Approaches were made to find it, the story goes that the did, but it was several metres down to top of turret. Because it was in a bog on the slope of hillside it was said that removal was not possible as it would require removing half the hillside. Not sure there wouldn't be another way. I have a letter somewhere from the Army to a friend of mine saying he could have the tank but they must be first in to clear any ordinance. Oh and the farm it is supposed to be on has changed hands with the new owner uncooperative reckoning he is onto a good thing! That's where the story is so far.

Put everything back as it should be, took away my two isolator switches and reversed the wires to the solenoid. Ran a tester across terminals and no reading which is great. Then pushed the solenoid starter and not only did it disengage as it should, it connected to the starter so it seems the problem was that the solenoid was negative earthed. Couldn't start v8 as its water pump is off being refurbished and its dynamo is being sorted too. Thanks for advice everyone.

Thanks everyone Will try these and report back so others may benefit. Talk about frustratingly weird! While I am posting here is another. Have been completing the prop shaft connection to the back axle and midway bearing support, and had to replace the cups on the pinions/splicers i think you call them. Had some new ones and after cleaning the pinion/splicer stub ends, tapped the caps gently onto the ends. A tight fit. When i encouraged the caps, all of them the same, to rotate, they seemed to unscrew one way and then lock, then screw tiģht the other and then lock. How? They are push on. As they unscrewed they left the rod bearings on the stub ends. Prop shaft now fitted and hoping all is well once i get a water pump conditioned and dynamo bearings sorted. Oh the fun of lying on a cold dusty concrete floor as the wind and rain rattle the corrugated sheets on my Nissen hut.

Thanks David I'll try that or sort the dash starter button out. I'm pretty sure its wire is correct so maybe it is stuck on. When I discovered this fault the first few attempts at starting were okay using the solenoid starter switch, but after 3 or 4 attempts it developed the problem mentioned which stayed. I have the cutout switch between the battery and everything else so that is fine. Bad earths on any of the relative components wouldn't cause this would it? I wouldn't think so but just thinking about old vehicles and their electrical problems! Thanks Nigel

Have managed to get the v8 running nicely in my truck after a long lay off, but there is a weird thing happening when I start her that I can't work out so am hoping someone can. It is positive earth and i have a cut out switch on the battery to solenoid starter line. It is 12v. When I start, the solenoid switch sticks on so the cut off switch acts as starter except it keeps the starter motor running which is obviously to be avoided!! I have tried three different solenoid starter switches and all do the same. All wiring is as per wiring layout. Dash starter not working at moment. Connections to solenoid switch are Negative battery feed plus regulator to one side, starter motor to other and dash starter button to smaller connection between. Managed to get engine running temporarily by introducing another cut off switch on the regulator line and using the other one to switch off feed to starter motor when engine catches! Will try a brand new solenoid to try but feel there is something i am missing (apart from some brain cells!). Ideas? Thanks Nigel

That's great thanks, now I know what to look for! Any leads to finding one? Thanks Nigel

I am puting together an WW2 artillery battery command post and would like some help as to the equipment used to connect the gun battery phones to the battery officers CP. It's the control unit I require that the various phones would be wired into. Can't find it in W for W books. Thanks Nigel