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Sharp's Sarry.


DP1981

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Ok so the weather is warming up and i have some time on my hands to get into and start tinkering and checking things.

I am the least mechanically savvy person i know, untill i have my hands inside it and can see how something actually works.

The Sarry is currently parked on a hard standing at a friends garage where i was hoping to have any work i am not physically/skillfully capable of working out done. (but at £39+vat ph per mechanic it's a last resort)

 

a spare couple of hours and some daylight meant i was able to go have a dig around last night.

 

took the cover off the gearbox had a nosey, anyone spot anything that should not be? every think moves fine and dandy after cycling throught the gears stopping to pump the gcp 10 times in each gear. (read has a fat left leg today)

 

Neutral, note 4th and 5th gear are advanced 7-10mm is this an issue? they return inline with the others when engaged in any other gear.

 

 

1st gear

 

 

2nd gear

 

 

3rd gear

 

 

4th gear

 

 

5th gear

 

 

and the last one being the FFW filler, i'm on the hunt today to find all the required bits to successfully remove this and check the level without loosing anything into the housing.

1.1/4 box spanner and a length of stud (5/16 or 3/8? can anyone clarify?)

 

 

 

will report back.

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someone sold me a FFW level/filler plug tool, and it turned out to be a ferret one, I think... so if you find a good source, (of more than one! lol!, please let me know!)... I'm about to embark upon a FFW replacement, as my current one leaks!!! I am sweating just contemplating it:shake::readbook::coffee::coffee:

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I'm fancying my luck with a box spanner and some threaded rod. I forgot to take calipers to measure the cap tho so it could be 1.1/4 but may be smaller.

Many many pics of the FFW change and good luck.

I'm having nightmares of brake band changes in my future.

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Victory! FFW plug removed and level checked.

 

Filled the gap between the ffw and bell housing with rag as much as i could get in there and still access the plug (overkill to be safe) then using a 1" socket on an extended bar i loosened the plug slowly 1/4 turn at a time untill it was twistable by finger.

i could not get a box spanner in there the angle was all wrong.

 

Then using a bit of gash 3mm rod in the threaded hole and my fingers to hold it together i removed the plug and washer safely away from the ffw and housing.

 

I was rewarded by the ffw being full tot he filler with nice bright fluid :) yay i stifled a dance of joy lest i knock something over.

 

The copper washer looked fine so i left it on the plug and re fitted it withthe same care as it came out.

 

I am a happy boy.

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Victory! FFW plug removed and level checked.

 

Filled the gap between the ffw and bell housing with rag as much as i could get in there and still access the plug (overkill to be safe) then using a 1" socket on an extended bar i loosened the plug slowly 1/4 turn at a time untill it was twistable by finger.

i could not get a box spanner in there the angle was all wrong.

 

Then using a bit of gash 3mm rod in the threaded hole and my fingers to hold it together i removed the plug and washer safely away from the ffw and housing.

 

I was rewarded by the ffw being full tot he filler with nice bright fluid :) yay i stifled a dance of joy lest i knock something over.

 

The copper washer looked fine so i left it on the plug and re fitted it withthe same care as it came out.

 

I am a happy boy.

 

Good for you, you had some luck! I would still have changed the crush washer though. Hopefully it wil hold.

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I cleaned around the plug so it was dry and turned the engine till i could see the opposing plug and have left her like that i'll check on it in a few days and see if there is any signs of leakage then i'll run the engine up and see if she blows/leaks with some pressure. I'll change it she does leak.

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...yeah, sorry to pour water on your coals, but if you re-use a copper sealing washer, you should re-anneal it, by heating it till it just starts to glow red, and then let it cool, so it softens enough to allow it to deform and seal effectively when tightened against.

 

A leaky flywheel leads to more expensive/invasive repairs, as I am finding out,... plus breaking down when miles from home, due to loss of drive gets very expensive, cos' if you need recovering, flat towing is NOT the way to do it, unless at no more than 10mph!, (even then, you may over heat the gearbox), so you'll need a low-loader, or very big rigid....

 

forewarned is forearmed!:-|

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try a local hydraulic specialist, as they are likely to be much cheaper.... my local one is 'Pirtek', and stuff this small is usually only a matter of pence,.... modern 'Dowty' washers may even be suitable, since they are made to withstand greater pressures than in these flywheels, and at higher temeraturs too......:-D

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try a local hydraulic specialist, my one is 'Pirtek', it should work out much cheaper, I'd have thought. A modern 'Dowty' type washer may even be suitable, since they are made to withstand even greater pressures and higher temperatures than those generated in a fluid flywheel..... and I know for a fact these are likely to only be a few pence, rather than pounds.....:cool2:

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try a local hydraulic specialist, my one is 'Pirtek', it should work out much cheaper, I'd have thought. A modern 'Dowty' type washer may even be suitable, since they are made to withstand even greater pressures and higher temperatures than those generated in a fluid flywheel..... and I know for a fact these are likely to only be a few pence, rather than pounds.....:cool2:

 

Yes, mine had a dowty washer installed. I reused it.

 

From an ebay listing:

 

The Bonded Seal consists of a metal washer of rectangular section, which has

bonded to it’s inside diameter a vulcanised, trapezoidal shaped ring of rubber. Both the

washer material and the rubber compound can be selected to suit a given application.

 

• ELIMINATION OF SEAL OFFSET

• ELIMINATION OF LEAKS

• EASE OF INSTALLATIONT

• REDUCED ASSEMBLY TIME

• CAPTIVE ASSEMBLY

 

The centralising feature is a thin membrane, the

inner diameter of which equals the core diameter of

the locating thread. The membrane offers little

assembly resistance and ensures that the seal

locates centrally in the thread undercut.

Designed for use in applications where thread

undercut is present.

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