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New Saracen Owner from Alaska


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Good morning guys... my name is Rodney Dial, I am a Lt. with the Alaska State Troopers based in Ketchikan Alaska and prior military, US Army Ranger.

 

I recently purchased a Saracen #418 and have been reading all the tips on this site from the experts for days. Great infomation.

 

The only question I have at this time that I was hoping someone could help me with is checking the fluid flywheel. I was looking for the access port to check the oil level and was wondering... is that the one under the front drivers seat? if so, do I need to remove the seat to check the levels?

 

I am sure I may have other questions later, but am going through my manuals and learning all I can to take special care of this vehicle. I sure do like the way the RR engine purrs, nice bit of British engineering.

 

Thanks

Rodney

 

DSC00660.jpg

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Hi welcome to the forum Cant help you with your query but feel sure there are plenty of experts on here who will. I have a question for you how did it end up right over there. Also green with envy not with the machine you have but the beautiful area you live in spent a couple of weeks around there Stunning. That smoked Sockeye in packets ate it like bars of chocolate dribble dribble

Edited by cosrec
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Hi, Welcome to the forum. Very nice Saracen indeed! The fluid flywheel filler is in front of the drivers seat, in fact in front of the steeing column, standing up at about 45 degrees from the floor, under a small egg shaped cover with two bolts. You can see it by looking under the seat from behind. (directly under the seat, on RHS, flat down is the gearbox filler)There are two fillers in the flywheel at 180% to each other. You need to have someone turn the engine slowly to bring either into line. There is a proper tool to remove the plug but you can manage with a length of (I think) 5/16 UNF stud (maybe 3/8?) and a box spanner. Screw the stud into the centre of the plug then loosen with the box spanner, leaving the stud in place. Use the stud to lift the plug clear. Top up with light (5 SAE) hydraulic oil to the bottom of the thread. Using the stud, start the plug back in the tread, (dont drop the copper washer) tighten with the box spanner and only then remove the stud. The reason for all this fiddling about is because there is room between the cases to drop the plug and you certainly will if you just use a socket or box spanner without the length of studding to hold onto. If you drop it, it is an engine out job to recover it! Some people do the job by stuffing rag into the case below the plug, up to you!!!

You can check the level in a much simpler way, called the 'stall test'. Put it into 3rd gear with the engine running and the hanbrake hard on. Vey quickly (no more than ten seconds absolute max), engage the gearchange pedal and floor the throttle. Revs must NOT exceed 800, 750 is better. If revs climb above this, oil is low and needs refilling. At 800rpm, engine is probably developing 50 hp or maybe 35 kilowatt, all of which is going into about 10 pints of oil, hence the very short period you can do this before boiling the oil and burning the seals. If it does go over 800 rpm, very very quickly try 4th or 5th as it is possible that 3rd brake bands may be slipping. First or second may overpower the brakes unless you have them very firmly applied!

Have you tried driving it cross country yet? Now that is fun!!

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Welcome, from just a bit east and south of you, Ontario Canada to be precise.

 

As John says there is a specialist tool but his method is spot on.

 

Neglect that check at your peril.

 

Is your vehicle stored in heated ie above freezing temps?

 

We share a similar climatic range as you, and have issues with wheel cylinders and other seals as a result.

 

Regards

 

Robin

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Welcome Rodney,

 

Congratulations, you have just taken on a new life. Please feel free to ask lots of questions, that way I can also take advantage of the answers. I found out this winter that Robin is very correct about seals not liking the cold temps. Although the actual leakage occurred just after a single digit cold spell warmed up a bit. Large puddles indeed.

 

Bob

In Indiana

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Hi Rodney, welcome to the forum indeed.

I can't agree more with John on his method. He maybe should have warned you about the copper washer even before removing it even though you will replace it. Always good as a sample for a replacement.

You didn't say anything about your own size but at some point you may wish that you are japanese and a small one at that!:-D

The type of oil used may come up for discussion as well.

Do you have the registration number of the vehicle? It is on a plate bolted to the inside of the body just underneath the left hand escape hatch. Go ahead and post more pictures as well.

Enjoy the forum!

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Hey Guys,

 

Thought I would chime in here...Ive been to Ketchican, a very neat little town and contrary to all the postings here, Ketchikan has a very mild climate. I know when you hear "Alaska" you think burr...very cold but...from the website http://www.ketchikan.com/ is a breif description...

 

Welcome to Ketchikan, Alaska's "first city". We can boast of our beautiful setting, mild climate and rich history. Ketchikan has rainforests, fjords, glaciers and numerous waterfalls. Our temperatures are never very cold or very hot: in January, our average temperature is 35º and in July, it is 58º. One thing before you begin, get your umbrella. The rainfall measures approximately 15 feet per year!

 

So perhaps with the amount of rainfall they get, its closer to the weather in the UK :-)

 

Cheers

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Hi, Welcome to the forum. Very nice Saracen indeed! The fluid flywheel filler is in front of the drivers seat, in fact in front of the steeing column, standing up at about 45 degrees from the floor, under a small egg shaped cover with two bolts. You can see it by looking under the seat from behind. (directly under the seat, on RHS, flat down is the gearbox filler)There are two fillers in the flywheel at 180% to each other. You need to have someone turn the engine slowly to bring either into line. There is a proper tool to remove the plug but you can manage with a length of (I think) 5/16 UNF stud (maybe 3/8?) and a box spanner. Screw the stud into the centre of the plug then loosen with the box spanner, leaving the stud in place. Use the stud to lift the plug clear. Top up with light (5 SAE) hydraulic oil to the bottom of the thread. Using the stud, start the plug back in the tread, (dont drop the copper washer) tighten with the box spanner and only then remove the stud. The reason for all this fiddling about is because there is room between the cases to drop the plug and you certainly will if you just use a socket or box spanner without the length of studding to hold onto. If you drop it, it is an engine out job to recover it! Some people do the job by stuffing rag into the case below the plug, up to you!!!

You can check the level in a much simpler way, called the 'stall test'. Put it into 3rd gear with the engine running and the hanbrake hard on. Vey quickly (no more than ten seconds absolute max), engage the gearchange pedal and floor the throttle. Revs must NOT exceed 800, 750 is better. If revs climb above this, oil is low and needs refilling. At 800rpm, engine is probably developing 50 hp or maybe 35 kilowatt, all of which is going into about 10 pints of oil, hence the very short period you can do this before boiling the oil and burning the seals. If it does go over 800 rpm, very very quickly try 4th or 5th as it is possible that 3rd brake bands may be slipping. First or second may overpower the brakes unless you have them very firmly applied!

Have you tried driving it cross country yet? Now that is fun!!

 

Thanks John... great tips. I have been studying the manuals for a few weeks now and just had some ex Army mechanics perform PMCS on it. I have driven it about 15 miles to date, but will make sure its a complete check before I drive it much more. I have a spare of just about everything at this point and am at the cleaning with a toothbrush stage..lol

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Welcome in.

Also like to know how it got over there.

 

The wife also has a question.

Are you one of those Alaskan State Troopers that have there own programme on one of the cable channels?

 

MIke

 

Hi Mike,

 

I bought the vehicle from a collector in Minnesota. He had this one and a few Russian tracked vehicles, I think BMP's (?). He had the vehicle stored in his stop for years, and bought it from another person who had it imported from the UK to New Jersey I think around 1996. Anyway, apparently the first US owner was convicted of some federal charge and prohibited from owning it.

 

I bought the vehicle for $16.9k US, and a new engine, gear box, starter, etc. for another $6.5k. It cost me $3.5 k to have the vehicle transported to Seattle, and another 1k to barge it to Ketchikan, and $1k to have it serviced.

 

We built a dedicated storage area for the vehicle so I am out about 30k at this point.

 

Alaska is a low government state (Think Sara Palin), so registering it was fairly easy, and insurance only cost me $300 per year. Driving it home made me realize that I need a lookout or a few RV side and back-up cameras installed. I am 5'10'" 180 so I can get in the seat, but still a snug fit.

 

The climate here is mild, like Seattle only it rains more.

 

Yes that National Geographic show is, and has been filming my department. They haven't made it down to SE Alaska yet, but soon.

 

One other question? is the radiator cap supposed to completely seal? or does it let off some fluid when it heats up? I was losing a little as it warmed up.

 

I also noticed that a small amount of very light fluid...almost light brown water, but not really oily in my hands, was dripping out the drain hole in the back of the vehicle. In a day or so, this evaporates, so I am thinking it may just be condensation. I pulled the floor plates and could not seen any leaks. I read on another forum people saying that if your Saracen is not leaking, its out of oil. I guess I will take that to mean that a little bit of fluid here and there is to be expected.

 

Thanks again guys for all your replies and info.

 

Rodney

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