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humber pig clutch/ window sealant


martin parke

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hi folks im looking for a little help or advise on the above ,

i gave the points, rotar arm, cap, leads and plugs a good clean today and fired the old girl up, after a bit of spluttering and puffing etc she settled down into a nice idle, after running for about 20 mins i tried to get her moving, i engaged the clutch and tried to put her in gear but the clutch wouldnt engage, it seems to be stuck with her not driving for over a year, i sprayed all the linkages with wd40, is there anything else i can do to free it ?

secondly i am refurbing the front window units as they are leaking quite badly, there seems to be some sort of sealant and what looks like gaffer tape all around them , i have cleaned all this off now and i need to redo them with something, i was thinking of something like a stick on padding or something simlar any help or advise greatly received tks martin

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hi folks im looking for a little help or advise on the above ,

i gave the points, rotar arm, cap, leads and plugs a good clean today and fired the old girl up, after a bit of spluttering and puffing etc she settled down into a nice idle, after running for about 20 mins i tried to get her moving, i engaged the clutch and tried to put her in gear but the clutch wouldnt engage, it seems to be stuck with her not driving for over a year, i sprayed all the linkages with wd40, is there anything else i can do to free it ?

secondly i am refurbing the front window units as they are leaking quite badly, there seems to be some sort of sealant and what looks like gaffer tape all around them , i have cleaned all this off now and i need to redo them with something, i was thinking of something like a stick on padding or something simlar any help or advise greatly received tks martin

 

Martin I know that products made by 'Compriband' are used in construction as a self adhesive neoprene seal between certain items to create an air and water seal. These would be more suitable than relying on a tube of silicone. However a glazing sealant would be appropriate as well to seal where the tape edges would meet at right angles.

 

Other systems such as butyl tapes are suitable and again seal against air and water and are sticky non setting sealants on a tape with high grab qualities.

 

An appropriate sealant is the sealant used on caravans that stays flexible and seals nooks and crannies.

 

I have spare windscreens for mine and one is NOS so will try and take a picture of a mint one over the weekend and load up.

 

What you need is Clive to come and answer this one! ;)

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thanks for the fast reply m8, i have made new window units and i have them sealed in ok, as you can see in the pic i need something to seal the rest

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]42868[/ATTACH]

 

Noted if you want to open and close the window covers then the compriband product is perfect and will keep the water out.

 

Links may be helpful.

 

http://www.sheffins.co.uk/COSHH/Compriband%20600.pdf

 

http://www.tremco-illbruck.co.uk/products/00816_index.html?markets=1&applications=1&products=1304&char=C

 

http://www.tremco-illbruck.co.uk/service/productfinder/index.html?typ=1&id=92

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Noted if you want to open and close the window covers then the compriband product is perfect and will keep the water out.

 

Links may be helpful.

 

http://www.sheffins.co.uk/COSHH/Compriband%20600.pdf

 

http://www.tremco-illbruck.co.uk/products/00816_index.html?markets=1&applications=1&products=1304&char=C

 

http://www.tremco-illbruck.co.uk/service/productfinder/index.html?typ=1&id=92

 

cheers m8 thats exactly what i need :)..

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Martin when you say you "can't engage the clutch" do you mean the clutch pedal doesn't move at all or it moves all the way but nothing happens & you can't engage gears?

 

I would check to see whether you still have a chain or a rod type linkage & make sure these are not stretched, undone or broken. Get someone to operate the pedal & observe what moves. There was story of a Pig coming under attack in NI when the clutch mechanism failed. One brave soldier lay on the bonnet whilst levering a metal bar on the clutch lever. The driver had to shout when he wanted the clutch activated.

 

With your adhesive backed foam it is better to buy stuff that is thinner than you think you need. Then if you need it thicker you can run another layer over the first. Be wary of having too much on the top edge & the uppermost vertical sides. Although it can compress quite well it still has a finite thickness & you can find too much around the upper half of a hinged visor like this can prop it open a little wider around the lower half.

 

I would build up the strips in stages rather than smother whole aperture with foam strip to find that although you have cured a leak on the upper part that you have made it worse as the visor closes less effectively.

 

I would first ensure that the copious layers of paint are chiselled away from the frame & visor edges. Place a lower horizontal strip then check it still closes fully then progress halfway up each side, being prepared to thin the foam's thickness this is best done with scissors whilst it is still on the backing strip.

 

It is tedious & messy testing for leaks with water all the time. To start off with it would be more convenient to sit in the cab with all door & hatches closed then get an assistant to shine a powerful torch tracing the edge of the visor. That can be quite revealing.

 

Most classic car accessory/upholstery suppliers will sell this in varying thickness & widths by the metre.

 

If you find there are significant gaps consider this method. Where there is a gap fill the frame with Plastic Padding then liberally grease the part of the visor opposite then closing it firmly but slowly. Wipe away any excess, let it set then gently open the visor. As it will be a very accurate match you will need to slightly sand paper the surface to make allowance for however many layers of paint you are going to use.

 

Only do small sections at a time with checking for clearance before moving to the next section.

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Martin,

 

If the linkage is operating the clutch but nothing is happening then it is likely that the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel. This is more common than you might think on vehicles that are left standing around. The method to free the plate is as follows.

 

 

 

  1. Start the engine in neutral and let it get thoroughly warm, this will get heat through the flywheel to the clutch plate, which helps the process.
  2. Turn the engine off.
  3. Make sure you have a clear path in front/behind you depress the clutch and put the pig in gear (first is better but reverse if you have to).
  4. Depress the clutch pedal and try to start the engine whilst it is in gear. Be prepared to be propelled in whatever direction depending upon what gear you are in. The clutch will normally free of immediately. If not you can come safely to a halt by braking and turning off the ignition at the same time.
  5. If it is still stuck or you have no room it is possible to achieve a better result with the rear wheels of the ground as you can then apply the brakes gently with the clutch pedal depressed to force the clutch to separate. IF YOU USE THIS METHOD THERE ARE CERTAIN PRECAUTIONS USE MUST TAKE

 

a)Ensure the pig is well supported on axle stands or stout wooden blocks and NOT ON A JACK OF ANY SORT.

b)Ensure the front wheels are chocked and DO NOT SELECT FIRST GEAR or the front wheels will engage and drag you forward. Use second gear instead.

 

I have used this method on a number of occasions and it has never failed me yet even on an old double decker bus. In that case I had to drive around the local industrial estate with the clutch depressed until it released. The important thing is to take your time and have a helper standing by but not in the way !

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Hi Martin , I would start her in first as advised above and then if you have a nice safe road drive along in first with the clutch pedal constantly depressed and gently accelelerate and then brake in a fashion of a learner driver ( kangaroo petrol style ) until she frees off ! Mine did this one year and it took about five minutes of driving and reversing in this manner obviously not going mad enough to damage the legendary rear axle ! :D I'm sure she'll free off fine !

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ok checked and all the linkages seem to be in place from the clutch pedal to the gear box ,so it looks more like as yous mentioned the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel, so as the pig is not road registered, im going to lift it onto 6ton axle stands and follow your advice on trying to free it.. fingers crossed and a big thanks for all your help ,, greatly appreciated by a pig novice,,

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thanks for the help clive and rover8ffr ..

 

You can refer to me as Wayne, Martin :D

 

Do you think the tape will glue this back together after a parcel force van decided to transform my car to a VW snow plough on Friday afternoon. :(

 

In the workshop under evaluation as we speak! looks cosmetic, but you don't know these days??? At least airbags didn't go or it would be a write off, especially with 42K on clock and 15 months old!

IMAG0645.jpg

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hi wayne, firstly im glad you weren't hurt in that smash, as you say cars nowadays arent made of the same stuff as years ago , hopefully it will be only panel damage . i dont think any tape will be much use for that, maybe a couple of tubes of super glue . hope you get her sorted m8.

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All in the hands of the people we pay our premiums to now!

 

At least I had 2 witnesses and the third party did accept blame to me and the Sherrif.

 

You can always replace a car I guess.

 

I wished I had been in my Pig though to see the Van come worst off though! :cheesy:

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