Jump to content

My new Humber Pig..... many of you already know it!


Big Dan

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Thought I`d bring you all up to date on my new toy - Adam Elkins old Amby Pig. A couple of months ago I posted up about wanting one and it was suggested I check out this one and another couple. I chose this one as, though its really scabby, the engine/box/axles/mechanics are pretty darn good - or at least thats how it looks after a brief check over.

 

Plan is to grease the 50 odd nipples, oild the joints, check the box and engine then strip the body down to component, strip, paint and assemble. Then use it.

 

Though I plan to take it to a few shows (I`m on the Surrey/Sussex border so think Beltring etc.) I`m not, at this stage, planning a show build - though its rare its in a VERY bad cosmetic state - I feel the main reason why it has languished off the road is that it is very tempting to go mad on this Pig - alas, you would need to be retired, single (or other half that wanted you out of the house) and with a big workshop and set up to do this to a winning standard. So I will be more realistic and just aim for "good" for the time being.

 

If I get this right there should be some up to date pics below:

 

 

 

Couple of mech pics:

 

 

A couple of questions to go with the mech pics - the tyre in the pic has damage to the outer wall - only to what looks like 5mm deep rubber - the inner wall is fine and the tyre has full air - knowing these things are bullet proof is this bad or cosmetic? Also, the main axle rubber cover looks good an all corners (would these always have been rubber or have they been replaced?) but where do I oild them and what type?

 

And some interior pics....

 

 

And just check out how many coats of paint - seriously, I know soldiers loved painting stuff green but I counted 11 coats of green between the origional white/red cross and the later red/white cross (checking the history that Clive dug up previously for Adam the Pig started out as an amby then became a flyer when up-armoured then, later, got converted bak to and amby ( though even the last red/white cross has a good 7 coats!)). I can also see a small blue patch on the back - reccognition I guess, though there is almost nothing left of it - any ideas?

 

 

Lastly, my favourite bit, some bullet holes in the front wing including an exit mark (there are also what looks like corresponding dings in the armour - I will know more when all the old scabby paint is off:

Awesome!!!

 

Justanother question - the hydraulics operating the front windows are shot - one opens about an inch then the pump seizes up, the other just makes a wheazy noise from the base of the pump - any ideas/bi-passes?

 

I`ll keep you all up to date, along with a few more questions (I have a couple of period pics I have not found on google so I`ll scan them and put them on soon.

 

Cheers, Dan.

008.jpg

001.jpg

009.jpg

002.jpg

007.jpg

006.JPG

004.JPG

013.JPG

015.JPG

012.JPG

016.JPG

018.JPG

010.JPG

017.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dan , Great to see the old girl is being preserved still ! All that cosmetic stuff just needs a going over with a needle gun and a couple of layers of paint unless the sheet metal is rusted away and most of that is basic folded stuff so not to difficult to replace ! That tyre may be sound in our opinion but I reckon a VOSA or Police officer may think differently :shocked: Tyres do come up for sale occasionally maybe an Ad on Milweb will turn one up ! The Tracta joint gaiters are normally rubber and you oil the joints with EP90 with a grease type gun until oil comes out of the plug hole at the opposite end ! The nipples on the hubs also fill with EP 90 ! Have you any handbooks ? If not I can post you the relevent pages as that will probably explain it a lot better than I can ! Good luck mate and drive her gently as if the rear axle is made of plasticine :wow: ! Regards Andy:-D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan, well done for saving that one.

 

Have a look around & let me know what you need, I may have some bits & pieces. I see you will need a new driver's seat, I can help you there. I see a tank is out, I have some spare tanks & the mesh guards for underneath. I also have parts books & EMERs.

 

The 'commander's' seat is interesting, looks more like an office or RT operators seat. I suspect this is for a medical attendant to swivel round & attend to a casualty eg to maintain an airway. When you get a chance it would be nice to see some pics of that.

 

Whether you need any items from me or not, I'm happy to show you around my Pig in terms of what to do in terms of servicing. Although I could send Deputy Fowler to give you a guided servicing tour around yours (apparently he did win the W&P Humber prize, whereas I did not)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Clive,

Yep, a buddy of mine is ex para medic who was in and out of Pigs in NI all the time - the seat should swivel to allow the medic to work on the casualty - though he saw several different knocked-up versions!

 

Where abouts are you and your Pig - would be very keen to get a tour of one and go through maintenance.

 

Thinking of chopping off some of the up-armour, the section around the door looks like it could come off and I prefer the roof hatches round myself - bet they are very well welded on though!

 

New drivers seat cover definatly needed - passenger door handle also snapped at the split pin. Adam should be sending me manuals as we speak.

 

Thanks, Dan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting you can have first hand accounts of them in action. I assume that the interior white gloss is for visibility & can be wiped down easily with disinfectant.

 

I am 10 mi SW Salisbury.

 

New drivers seat bottom £20 (look back through old for sale posts of mine for pics)

 

Would be a shame to chop off armour it will reduce the historical accuracy & hence value ultimately especially on such a rare vehicle. The only orther Mk 2 FV1613 is at AMS Museum, Keogh Barracks, near Aldershot.

 

The armour in Op Bracelet Sept 1972 - July 1973 was put on by two teams working either side of the Pig. The quality depended on the skill of the welders, in some cases these were clerical staff, orderlies etc working long hours even during the 3-day-week trying to give the lads extra protection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is looking like a nice 'Pig' owner friendly thread to follow. Good Stuff!

 

Look forward to the updates. Dan if you get chance to visit Clives location. Well worth it and definately get the manuals/ EMER's etc as they are the bibles and great information.

 

Regards

Edited by Rover8FFR
typo oops!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My only thoughts on removing some armour were to do with taking some stress off the back axle - taking Andies warnings on board. Appreciate that its a rare beast but I would rather keep it moving - saying that if I follow the oiling according to the manual, keep it in 4wd and accellerate carefully can anyone advise how the back axle might fare?

 

I`m sure we`ve all seen the clip on youtube of the Pig destroying the pallet building - must have put a huge strain on the running gear.

 

Can anyone help with the more immediate problem of opening the front window slits? The two hand pumps do very little - one opens about an inch, the other just makes a squirting noise - stupid question but these look like standalone pneumatics so I assume the engine does not have to be running.

 

Cheers, Dan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picking up on one of Clives earlier observations, yes a tank has been removed. I believe the tank needs cleaning rather than having a leak so I was planning on doing the petrol/chain thing then treating with Kream cleaner and sealant - should do the job - unless you have a good tank at a good price.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan always move off in 1st gear that puts you in 4WD. But there should be an auto-disengage spring-plunger to push it out of 4WD once you move out of 1st. Send me a picture of the 4WD lever & I'll tell you if that is or has ever been fitted. Instructions issued for Mk 2 to reduce rear axle strain was to reverse in 4WD. Otherwise don't stay in 4WD on the road.

 

I was there watching the Pig destroy the pallet building. Although that was a Mk 1, I shouldn't think the Pig batted an eye lid, not much of a challenge to it at all.

 

The squirting noise, is that from the ram or the pump? There are 4 screws on the top the pump. 3 are Allen heads, one is a hexagonal head - that one is the filler plug. I would top that up with hydraulic fluid & make sure they are all tight.

 

The horizontal knob is the pressure release control. I would turn it back & forth to make sure it moves freely. Then turn it fully clockwise & then pump & see what happens. Those vision blocks are extremely heavy. It is a struggle for two people to carry. Never trust the integrity of the hydraulics. If you ever have to put a finger or a hand through the hole assume it may collapse & prop it up with a sturdy block of wood.

 

I have exploded drawings if you get stuck. Clean it all up & try to spot if there are any leaks.

 

I think I can find a good take off-tank for £50 - I need to know tonight ideally if you want one I can collect it tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My only thoughts on removing some armour were to do with taking some stress off the back axle - taking Andies warnings on board. Appreciate that its a rare beast but I would rather keep it moving - saying that if I follow the oiling according to the manual, keep it in 4wd and accellerate carefully can anyone advise how the back axle might fare?

 

I`m sure we`ve all seen the clip on youtube of the Pig destroying the pallet building - must have put a huge strain on the running gear.

 

Can anyone help with the more immediate problem of opening the front window slits? The two hand pumps do very little - one opens about an inch, the other just makes a squirting noise - stupid question but these look like standalone pneumatics so I assume the engine does not have to be running.

 

Cheers, Dan.

 

Dan , mine has still full armour protection and has touch wood made it to War and Peace under her own steam many times loaded with camping gear up and down some steep hills ! I would say when in service they would have been driven a lot more frantically and loaded with possibly more than ten big lads ! I would hope yours also will be ok ! Just keep it in the back of your mind when pulling away really ! Also maintenance of fluid levels before trips out is essential !

One of the visors on mine didn't pump up after a long rest and I found that after a lot of pumping she went up eventually ! I now make sure that I leave the valve open if visors are left closed as my theory is that the vehicle interior gets quite hot in the summer and if the hydraulic fluid expands with the valve closed and the visor locked down that it maybe forces past the internal seals ! Only my theory though !:-D A good top up should sort it out ! Totally agree with Clive regarding fingers in visor openings and also doors if parked on a slope they can be very dangerous ! I am always telling interested people (especially children) to avoid the finger removing parts !:shocked: Good luck mate Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I have been poking around the Pig today and got a few more detail pics and questions.

 

First up, close up of the commanders chair - not much to tell as its pretty basic:

 

 

 

Second is a "whats this" question - its on the roof just behind commanders hatch and its a hole in the up-armour that reveals a round thing with a square bit on top - any ideas?

 

 

 

Next is a detail shot of the gearstic arrangement to see what sort of 4wd switch set up it has:

 

 

Next is a further thought on some of the up-armour. As Clive has pointed out, some was not attached to well - mine has some of this. The welds on the turret hatch armour has come away on both outer edgesand no longer touches on either outside edge. The roof plate has also snapped on 3 of the 4 welds (see pic) - the result is the roof plate is floping around - if I lean on it it lifts half an inch on the other end, with a pry bar you can easily lift in an inch. Good job I have not driven it on the road as I reckon a pothole or two would have had the top skidding down the road! My thinking is the simple removal and storage of this will save weight and not detract too much - don`t forget this is not intended to be a show queen but I am aware of the Pigs rarity and, as ever with these things, may change my mind and go the whole hog in the future.

 

Lastly, aimed at Clive, I do need a good tank (happy to run just one) as I have checked the tank thats out and its quite rusty above the halfway level if you can still get it. Also, the passenger door handle has sheered (see pic) - if you have one it would be good - if not I can get it welded. Ah, I will also need the seat bottom you mentioned and a back if you have one.

 

 

Cheers, Dan.

044.JPG

040.JPG

065.JPG

058.jpg

045.JPG

056.JPG

055.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan

 

The square protrusion on the roof is for unscrewing a plug about 3in diam that cover a hole in the roof. All Pigs were provided with these. The only application I have seen is for aerial cable to pass through to a ground mounted mast.

 

This fitting later in NI it lent itself as a convenient mounting for Grenade Discharger No.11 Mk 1 often in conjunction with a spotlight.

 

Yes you have the spring loaded device to push it out of 4WD when you move from 1st to 2nd. This was to ensure that it was put in 2WD automatically, but also prevented the 4WD lever being engaged by error eg by treading on it. The 4WD lever horizontal is 2WD, with it leaning 30 degrees down it is 4WD. The earlier version was a hole drilled through the end of the lever with a bolt supporting a length of U channel. When 2WD was engaged the channel fell vertically, blocking the lever from being depressed into 4WD.

 

Yes the welding on just one side can be much poorer than the other. Of course any owner has the right to do whatever they choose with their vehicle etc & to suggest to someone they have a sort of duty to try to maintain its originality, particularly when it is bordering on a unique example, cuts no ice. But there will perhaps come a time when you decide to sell it, its financial value will be degraded the more originality is lost.

 

I would bide your time before doing anything drastic this soon. The priority should be automotive soundness first, bodywork & fancy bits second.

 

I checked the forum on the phone this afternoon but saw no reply. So I didn't bring the fuel tank back. The other person I am working with has a Pig friend who is after a tank as well so he offered it to him I'm afraid. I've only just got back so I'm not certain if he will have it or not. I'll keep you posted.

 

Ok I've got a lower seat base for you, but the back part is a rarity. Not sure about a door handle, recently sold one. But I'll have a look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at the welding it seems to be rusty rather than a Stainless Steel weld, does that mean that it has been welded with mild steel?

 

Curiously the Pig has both stainless and mild welds - stainless on the real heavy loads like hinge points and doors, mild on aromour joints. Though the door hinges are mild.......

 

Thanks, Dan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And just looked at my spelling - aromour? Must learn to check these things....

 

Clive, let me know about the spare tank when get a chance - no rush as I can always run from a can for the time being - I shall also check the other tank thats still fitted though I expect its the same. Appreciate the comments on armour removal - I guess if it was not a rare beast then I would whip it off without much questioning, but I am sympethetic to its history - though the main reason for going for this one was the good engine/box/axles rather than historical significance.

 

Anyone got a spare wheel and tyre?

 

Thanks, Dan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No tyre I'm afraid, but I do have some rims. No news on the tank yet.

 

Make sure your replacement tyre matches the type on the same axle. For a Mk 2 a tyre marked "REINFORCED" or "L" is correct. Don't use one intended for a Mk 1 that will usually be marked "RF HS"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...