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  2. Yes, I have agreed to go to the Overlord Show. You going?
  3. Today
  4. Those bearings are impressive. Doubtless a very special order in these times if they can be sourced at all. Stunning how good a condition they are in. Regards Doug (in Oz)
  5. Yesterday
  6. First coat of red primer plus some white,starting to come together but still a way to go
  7. Just before we called it a day today and particularly remembering that so many of the threads that we have found so far have been UNS, I just wondered if the threads on the Pinch Bolts of the Hub Caps would perhaps be either UNC or UNF, just a little more ordinary or run of the mill and easy to obtain as the ones in the Hub Caps must be replaced because of corrosion or damage. But not really any surprise again - they are 5/16" x 20 UNS- so they will have to be made in house!
  8. Are you at the Overlord show this year with the Valentine.
  9. But all is not lost. We have two good rears on the second Peerless chassis and in the wheel store we have a pair of cast metal ones. The aim is to blast and paint the metal ones and then swap them for the wooden ones which will then need some restoration work before they go on to the first Peerless. As I may have mentioned previously, the second Peerless will be restored as one in service during the campaign in Palestine and the metal wheels are absolutely correct for this. Finally, we had another rummage in the stores and found four Peerless front hub caps and one Peerless rear. There should be more of rears so we will keep looking. It really is quite amazing how much stuff for the Peerless trucks which we keep turning up. Sadly, still only the one engine though, but we have time to find another one yet.
  10. We have had a great deal of thought about the back wheels. When we put them into the wheel store about 20 years ago they were in pretty bad condition. The damp has certainly not improved their condition.
  11. The nest step was to look at the bearings. We managed to remove the outer bearings from the front wheels - we all ready had the rears. We looked at what we had in stock and made two good pairs which just required a great deal of cleaning. Paraffin does work wonders. The inner hub surfaces are in good condition and just required a clean up. We thought that we should have a look through what we have for the rear wheels and found quite a pile in stock. We have cleaned up the rear inners and will probably use the outers which are still in the wheels. Also, after quite a bit of rummaging we found a good pair of front and a pair of rear nuts to hold them in place. These are handed of course but we found everything we need in good condition. As we are not missing anything here and nothing is broken no one has to make anything and we can make it ready for reassembly.
  12. This was asked on a model forum, so someone looked into it. Prices for dismantling and moving ranged from £100,000 to £250,000.
  13. Had a productive weekend down in Devon. Dad has finished putting on the first coat of primer, and the back axle is now up on a stand awaiting his attention. We have found the chassis number on the rail - stamped in three places. 014489. I have looked through my various records and have no chassis numbers for Peerless trucks at all. I dont suppose anybody else has this information? It is interesting to see that the chassis is a great deal shorter (well, maybe about two feet) than the Thornycroft and we can walk behind it - or at least we will be able to access the shelves behind it.
  14. Had a few weekends recently where either bad weather or family commitments has prevented Tanker progress. However, been full on yesterday and today. Managed to get a bit of workshop space, and made the most of it. Full service done on Saturday, oils changed, complete grease up, brake adjustment etc,etc. Good days effort. Got the drain tap open on the rear most tank to drain it out. Got about 50 ltrs of kerosene (Donated to the workshop space heater). Took ages as it would only dribble. The taps on the other tanks appear to open but nothing comes out, so more effort required to get them drained. Back in again this morning (Sunday) to put primer paint on the tank. Masked up and ready Stand back and watch our Stuart having his first go at spraying. Weren't too bad either, got a good covering, and only a couple of runs. 2 hours work and 5 ltrs of paint later and we're all done. Looks even better outside in the daylight. Drive back to the yard was good too. Feels like she enjoyed a good servicing, even got a handbrake that works now too. Still got a bit of an issue with it not ticking over, though. Sometimes it will idle nicely, then all of a sudden it will start hunting, then stall. Other times it just stops as soon as you take your foot off the throttle. The fuel pump rack seems to be free enough, so further investigation required. Any advice or suggestions welcome.
  15. The cold war museum would be a good home for it as the V bombers were a main stay against the threat from the eastern block but sadly as someone wrote to me about the blackburn Beverley what price our military history if it cannot be put behind glass do not bother
  16. I told the love of my life about it over tea and she said "why don't you get it", that was until I told her how big it is.
  17. doesn't appear to be the case, plugs are present in both intake and exhaust, my bet is that it's the same condition as the day they decommissioned it. This was the last operating base for this aircraft, I bet it was simply towed from flight line to gate guardian in 1993 https://www.edp24.co.uk/news/raf-marham-offering-free-victor-jet-1-6504843
  18. Ron

    G3 parts on ebay

    Probably this will get moved to a not so obvious section. But I know there are a couple of guys looking for G3 parts and this doesn't seem over priced for the available parts.......Nothing to do with me! Ron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matchless-350cc-G3-rigid-girder-vintage-WW2-project/283792527197?hash=item42135a4f5d:g:HAsAAOSwjwdeUY8Y
  19. sounds like they don't have a choice. If it's structurally in danger of collapse, there's no funding to stabilize/restore it, and none comes forward, then what else? It would be bad if this was the last one but (according to Wiki)There's 4 others, 2 can be taxied. It will be interesting to see if anyone comes forward, finding someone with the funding or even a building large enough to display in seems low likelihood?
  20. If i see the extra coil springs i would say a Mannesmann-Mulag.
  21. Just how complete is it though. If it has been stripped of engines, systems and cockpit instruments etc it is just a shell in poor condition.
  22. It beggars belief that they would even consider scrapping it, I hope that someone comes along and saves it. Jon
  23. Any guesses on what it would cost to simply disassemble and move? 10K pound sterling? https://www.warhistoryonline.com/news/victor.html
  24. I used a little butane gas torch on quite a few Ford marked nuts and bolts to help free them before trying the spanners. Some were however, too far gone and one nut had corroded away so much there was just a helicoil of thread left screwed onto the bolt! I did manage to save some things like the steering wheel nut..... and the collar around the wheel.....
  25. hi earlymb, i did question the guys regarding the head they confirmed "> Hi Steve> Yes the head is post war on the original engine> regards Mike" I assume they themselves checked it all over prior to listing it for sale, they have between them over 70 years of knowledge, but i will check, as stated the jeep is currently in my daughters garage a short drive away until such time that the DVLA have checked it over i am not going to touch other than a bit of WD40 here and there to help the strip process.
  26. I have had a good break from things Thornycroft, whilst gathering up some paying work, but managed to push on with some chassis fittings yesterday. First job was to re align the steering box which was clearly not vertical. This was soon accomplished by shimming up one of the three mounting points with a mk 1 washer. I temporarily replaced the inner steering column and the result was pleasing. Next on the list were the angle iron plates for the seat mounting. I had a lucky find of some 2" angle in good order ( Thanks Phil.) and these were clamped up level with the frames and drilled through the original holes, before temporarily bolting up. (Proper 3/8 bolts are on their way.) Even a simple job like this has it's problems and in this case the drivers side bracket is fouling the two top holes of an unknown fitting which I dont have. I am guessing it's a pivot for the brake linkage ? and fits inside the chassis. In which case I need to relieve the angle iron to clear the nuts or bolt heads. Any wisdom on this would be much appreciated. Another 'simple' task, was to refit the scuttle brackets that came with the job. These are not J type, but Q type brackets and although basically the same, they do differ slightly and don't have the large opening that J types do. Adding this opening will mean cutting through the Thornycroft lettering ,which I am reluctant to do, so they will hafter doofer now. One of them lined up perfectly, the other was well out, and considerable filing was needed to elongate one of the holes in the casting. They were eventually brought into line, fitted with their correct wooden spacers and given a coat of Service Colour.
  27. It seems the ridge on the block between waterpump and head is approx. 8 cm wide, which indicates it has a gear- and not a chain distribution, which is a post-war feature. On the WW2 engines with a chain distribution this ridge is only about 3 cm wide, hence my question if it is the original block although I could be mistaken. Also, have a look at your inlet manifold. It seems to lack the two vacuum inlets at each outside corner. Check if it has 'A-1166' casted at the underside. If it has it could be a early manifold used only on very early production jeeps and quite sought after!
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