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  2. The size is available, search "700 x 15 forklift tyre".
  3. Not sure you’ll find a manual, it’s just a case of take some bits off and put others on. https://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/Frames.html
  4. Today
  5. Thanks, just need a manual Richard
  6. It is not that difficult to swap them over.
  7. Firstly if the engine is timed correctly, it should be run at full advance for normal running. The mixture screw is just for adjusting the idling mixture. 1 1/2 turns out is usually good enough. The running mixture is controlled by the slide, the needle position and the main jet. You should have a 120 main jet, a 5/4 slide, a 107 needle jet, the needle No6 should be in the second groove from the top. The plug should be something like a Champion L86C with an 18 thou gap. I think I've said before, A retarded ignition or a weak mixture will cause it to run hot. If the carb is worn so that the slide is wobbling about like a dick in a bucket will never give a good result. Maybe inspect the carb and remove the jet block as there is a tiny drilling in the throat of the carb (see pic) and a corresponding drilling in the jet block which might require poking out with a wire bristle. A little bit of verdigris in these drillings can cause running problems. Ron
  8. Just looking at a Land Rover, did the MoD have a manual on changing the hard top to soft top? If not I assume they only bought as needed, hard top or soft top? Richard
  9. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-suffolk-47975654/military-museum-in-suffolk-man-s-shed-includes-1200-guns
  10. Thanks Ron. Perfect instructions! I have time it up again, checking and double checking. the symptoms/ running still appear the same. It starts easy hot or cold, the plug is extremely carboned up, the electrode is white on the very tip. bike rides best with half choke, adjusting the carburettor mixture screw doesn't really make a difference under load. advancing the timing leaver worsens the running...... The bike still appears very hot after light riding... I am a little stumped at this moment in time, any suggestions would be most welcomed! Steve
  11. I tend to get mixed up over the vagaries of tyre sizes, can anyone offer advice on a suitable alternative for a 700 - 15 12 Ply tyre for a split rim wheel off an ex M.O.D. FMW TT40 tug. I think the AVON BUFFALO is now history, I don't mind what brand it is as long as it will do the job safely, my wife is frightened to walk by the current tyres....that somehow do still hold air !
  12. So be 'careful' on Corners then?...….😵
  13. An expression made famous by Bruce McLaren to describe a vehicle with poor handling, essentially 20 pounds of shite in a 10 pound bag....
  14. Here's a few pictures from around the Battery itself. Further pictures can be found here - http://www.sacarr.co.uk/mymvs/events/2019/heugh.htm
  15. The battery has been fund raising and the military vehicle event was just one of a number of new events to bring more people to visit. At the end of the day, they announced on their Facebook page that they had raised £1,500 across the day. There were around two dozen visiting vehicles ranging from armour to Jeeps. Having missed the Yorkshire MVT Crank Up due to illness, the Heugh Battery event was my first of the 2019 season and a great way to catch up with friends and start the season.
  16. Heugh Battery Museum - April 20th Britain's WW1 Battlefield It was a lovely cross country drive down to Hartlepool, to visit Heugh Battery, not too far from the Historic Quay and HMS Trincomalee. The battery is now a museum, but was first opened in 1860 to protect the port of Hartlepool. The guns were gradually upgraded over the years and by World War 1, was equipped with 6 inch guns. The battery, manned by the Territorial Force gunners of the Durham Royal Garrison Artillery, were to see action in the Bombardment of Hartlepool on 16 December 1914 against a German Naval Fleet. During the bombardment, the leading German battle cruiser fired a shell which struck aground less than 100 metres from the battery. This marked the first death in action of a soldier on British soil in World War I. A plaque commemorating the event is found on the coastal walkway just outside the battery.
  17. Interesting, as I have seen comments somewhere. Where an owner state he likes to 'Drive it fast'!..... Would you do that if it was unstable / unsafe? My question would be: If these were designed & used for MANY years by the Military. If they were that bad, why did they keep them in service? it dosent make sense?.....😲 Also, I might be a bit thick! but what is a Blivot?
  18. They drive like a blivot due to the poor design as I mentioned above. I have only ever driven a brand new one in the UK many years ago and I was not impressed, a used one is going to be even worse.
  19. Your welcome Stuart the unions may well be a British standard pipe thread no longer in use however they should be able to cut the tails that the unions are attached to out of the old flexi pipe and re-swage them into modern pipe. You may find they will not be prepared to offer a guarantee on integrity and workmanship but make it clear you accept responsibility for the reuse of old parts. Pete
  20. Thanks Pete. I wasn't sure if the ends would be an issue if they're not a modern metric thread, or if the existing ends can be reused, which I guess is what prompted me to ask the question. I'm learning as I go! 🙂 I've just googled so I'll try those places. Thanks for the advice. Stuart.
  21. Put 'hydraulic hose repair Bristol' into google Stuart, I just did and came up with at least three possible places very near to you. I would suggest you take the old hose with you as they may need to reuse the end couplings. Pete
  22. OK it was just to confirm that you have a tight wire advance cable. Fortunately with these Triumph's you don't need to remove the timing cover or need a special puller to release the mag pinion. First thing to do (if you haven't already) is make a gauge. Use a thin rod/spoke/Allen key/ drinking straw through the timing hole on top of the head. Sight it exactly against one of the fins and mark it exactly at TDC. Now mark it again at 5/16" (8mm) above your first mark. Set the engine so you know it's at roughly TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed) With a 1/4 Whit socket on a short extension bar through the hole in the timing cover, undo the pinion nut which will also act as the puller. Leave the pinion and socket hanging there once it's released. Now turn the engine backwards a bit to BTDC and then bring it forward again until the top mark on your gauge is sighted against your datum fin (5/16" BTDC) Make sure your handlebar lever is fully towards you (tight wire, fully advanced) and that you have a 12 thou gap when the points are fully open. Now turn your points block in a clockwise direction until the points just break which will be at around the 10 o'clock position. I use a 1 1/2 thou feeler gauge but traditionally it's a fag paper. Turn the points gently until the paper is just released and that is where you gently nip up the pinion. Now turn the engine over 2 revolutions and double check it. If you get it spot on first time, you are a better man than me Gunga Pooch! I've taken 6-12 times to get it spot on on various bikes. Finely nip the pinion nut tight. With modern petrol and the ability to retard it at the handlebar if necessary, I think it's acceptable to be a bit advanced, so if the piston arrived at 9mm BTDC when the points break, I'd be happy. Good luck. Ron
  23. Hi Andy I have a full set give me a ring or send me a text 07951697478 Amsco
  24. Citroman,Can you explain by what you mean by 'Poor Road Ability' Please? I am very interested to know.
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