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  1. Today
  2. I have an original MB/GPW steering wheel which I am looking to sell, but not sure what they are worth. It is the '42 to '45 style, green outer, steel spoked. Anyone have a good idea what they go for these days?
  3. Checked the condenser. It semed fine but was replaced anyway. I’m beginning to think it’s an advance issue. The rotor arm seems slack for about 5 degrees before the springs take up the extension. Might be ? I’ve changed the rotor arm over and checked the limiter doesn’t fly out to easily.
  4. Cheers bud, any brand suggestions, 40/60 grit. i will get some ordered to try as another option rather than grinding disc, mate at work says they are easier to use although you can get through a lot quite quickly Steve. ps, hope things are going well your end.
  5. I’ve been using a flapper disc to take off the rough welds and then as I approach the level required, I finish with a rotary sanding disc on a drill.
  6. Looking for some to build the Sherman Fury for me bud how you fixed. im far to busy with the Willys.
  7. Afternoon folks, moving onto my fenders now, the driver side is a little tatty with a few bubba repairs where he has left a few high spots of weld after repairs, is there any personal preference between grinding disc or flap disc, i have grinding disc here a guy at work said flap disc are easier to use, has anyone tried them if so can you suggest a decent brand please. Steve
  8. No idea if these are rare or unusual and no info in the ad, but... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/sudbury/hercules-zxb-engine-from-wwii-generator/1516046347
  9. Sorry I have sold that one.
  10. Hi, What price have you got on the Guy FBAX manual?
  11. Is that the Welsh way of spelling dies Steve 😀 Ron
  12. hello back again , could anyone give the info of the brass plate that is or was located on the passenger side of the footwell in the engine bay as mine is missing , i understand it gave the engine number and chassis number but not to sure as i was give the information by some person, a photo of one would great that would give me the size and what it looks like , thank you Pete ps , and where would obtain one , Pete
  13. Pavl, it all depends on what the gross weight registered for the vehicle is more than anything else mate, check your total tires are rated to carry the gross load. You are correct in respect to fore and aft positioning but when DOT pulls you over thats when the fun will start regardless of C of G mate God luck
  14. Yesterday
  15. I bought a ramp truck so I'd be more compact and maneuverable. It's a single-axle truck, so where the CVR(T) sits will affect axle loading a fair amount. There is a friendly scale in town, so I can weigh the empty truck on each axle then go get the CVR(T) and do it again but I'm also interested in taking the rig some places out in the sticks so I can play in the dirt, as such doing the stability calculations would be a prudent safety measure. I can come sort-of close assuming the CVR(T) is a uniform density, which all things considered might not be too far off, but I know for US military hardware there is a big book with rigging information for pretty much every vehicle in the inventory complete with centers, weights, lifting points, and tie points. I would have assumed such a thing existed for commonwealth vehicles as well and just hoped someone had a copy ready to hand.
  16. Pavl, we have used a Dodge 5500 with a gooseneck float trailer with tandem axles and oil bath axles rather than greased ones fitted with electric trailer brakes and a jake brake. We gauge them at 10 tons and go from there. Somehow we always seem to forget to go over a scale loaded it do the math. We have used a tandem axle straight truck with beaver tail ramps and been within the vehicle CVWR. I am not sure what the C of G has on your choices, it is gross load and truck and trailer weights that ministry of transport or your DOT are after in most cases, is C of G something they measure for stability?
  17. Thanks David. I will check the condenser again- it was NOS out of the box and checked it with my Megger before I fitted it. The carb was dripping fuel from the spindle seal as well. It is probably a number of issues...
  18. Hi Steve Yes taps and dias are definitely at the top of my list. The more efficient I become at working on these old British bikes the larger my tool collection becomes. There’s no better feeling when you have the right tool for the job!
  19. There are diaphragms in the carb that fail. Also ignition condensers need to be replaced with modern ones as even NOS original ones are doubtful after all this time. David
  20. Yes Dave, the block has two pipes which go down into the steam space with nuts on the bottom. Rather than having a big hole like on an Aveling etc. Off the top of my head I think it has 16 5/8” bolts just to locate the cylinder.
  21. Are those the steam take-offs for the cylinder in the last photo, Dave. In which case interesting to see they look they are nutted. Or is it something else. Dave
  22. As I am working on setting up a transport truck for my CVR(T), I realize it would be greatly beneficial to know the nominal center of gravity for both the Spartan and Scorpion. I'd also like to know what privately-owned vehicles weigh in practice (i.e. without a combat load of ordinance). In my case, the Spartan is dieselized and the Scorpion is original. Neither has and additional armoring, etc.
  23. Well, it’s fair to say that this season isn’t quite going to plan is it! Last time I posted back in May I was saying about my planned trip to France... if all had gone to plan after that I was to attend a show on Guernsey, before taking the Foden back to Devon to mark the centenary of it being purchased by Devon County Council - but alas it wasn’t to be! The covid lockdown and cancellation of events has moved my planned winter maintenance forward by a few months, this year my Foden comes up for its 10 year hydraulic boiler test. The firebox and front tubeplate were replaced 20 years ago and the same set of boiler tubes have been in it since, and although still in reasonable condition I thought it sensible to replace them whilst the boiler is stripped. So first job was to remove the outer smokebox (for those unfamiliar to Foden wagons the boiler barrel extends into the smokebox, but there is a “outer smokebox” with the gap between them lagged. This outer is held on by 1/2” rivets and is only lightweight so is easily removed. Anyway, once this was removed it was a simple case of grinding the ends of the tubes flush in the firebox and then pulling the tubes out the front, the 53 smoke tubes, and single stay tube were withdrawn within a hour and a half, and then my next job is to needle gun the inside of the barrel - not an easy task with the very small door in the front tubeplate to work through, but it’s all done now. Removal of fittings and studs was a tedious as always with several broken studs to attend too - and always the ones in the most awkward places! My next job is to remove the cab and crank (it needs a grind and new bearings etc) then I’m going to lift the boiler assemble out of the chassis, that way I can take the “power unit” home to work on in my shed, rather than having to drive for an hour to get to where the wagon is kept. Slow progress, but I hope this is of interest. With all the fantastic restoration blogs on here, and photos of things going back together, I thought I’d buck the trend and take mine apart !!!
  24. If you're restoring British motorcycles, and I've been doing such for over 40 years, taps and dies are as essential as spanners, hammer, etc, in the tool department........they are essential for running over or through parts that have been subject to rust, plating, painting, etc, to clean the threads to ensure smoothness in fit. I even do it to new-old-stock parts just to ensure a decent fit....... You don't need a massive stock of taps and dies......a basic set of 26 tpi cycle items are a good starting point, and you can add certain BSF, BSW, BSP and BA as time goes on.........many engine components use BSF or BSW, BSP for fuel and oil fittings, and BA for control levers, electrical, etc..........Autojumbles usually turn up loads of taps and dies cheaply, as does Ebay, etc......if buying new, Tracy Tools in Devon are excellent..... I was fortunate to acquire all my Dad's tools when he passed away a couple of years ago.....he was ex-RAF and an engineer. I acquired numerous taps, dies, etc, in all manner of widths, thread forms, etc, literally a cabinet full. I haven't sorted them all out yet but it's set me up for life there....
  25. Made of fibreglass.... Make a wooden pattern Make a silicone mold Layer up the fibreglass with brass inserts Now I have the pattern, I could get then cast in brass (but that is very expensive) The beauty about using fibreglass, it is light, strong, cheap and waterproof.
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