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  2. I had thought you had some good experience Hummermark with Detroits .I have run N55 on the 2 -valve head with elongated port holes with 17:1 compression ratio making sure the return fuel line outlet elbow runs an .80thou hole, and is easy start and runs very clean around the 190- 200 HP, estimated, cheers Andrew.
  3. Hi I have rebuilt 6 6046 twin packs with 2 valve heads and dynoed 6 engines with the n80 injectors fitted in two valve head but all engines had the later bigger port liners run fine. on a 4 hour full load run 245 hp 601 foot pound torque 2083 rpm blower pressure of 5.02 psi exhaust gas temperature 564 centigrade 1047 Fahrenheit.(each engine is nynoed on its own from a 6046) n80 and 4 valve head gave more hp and torque should have measured decibels in dyno room at full load that would be high! As you say would not want to run n80s with the original liners small surface area compared to the modern ones. the low block block does obscure the base of the new liner ports slightly but I have a military manual that says to grind the block to clear I have done this on a 6046 but made no difference on dyno results. the injector arms if you grind/machine a notch to clear injector body works fine . no external fuel rails is not a guarantee it is a 4 valve head 6-71 cylinder head casting number 5108548 has built in fuel gallery's and is a 2 valve head. there is various mods that I do to the heads for more efficient cooling on the original 2 valve heads as recommended by Detroit ,better as with n80s injectors will be getting more power =heat than the ww2 setup. if you like a visual clean exhaust then go for n65 injectors and 4 valve heads do not know what hp that will give you as have never dynoed that set up but did know of a gun carriage set up like that very clean exhaust.
  4. Looking to aquire a deactivated P17 Rifle to do a Home Guard sketch.
  5. Has anyone out there got a source of these M3 Stuart Tank mud-flap support brackets or have stamped some out? We are looking for about 1/2 dozen, Thanks and PM if you can help, cheers Andrew Rowe.
  6. Nice find! They will come back OK with a bit of persistence. Looking forward to following the story! Steve 🙂
  7. Doc

    Karrier WDS

    Clutch. The clutch required to come apart, as it was seized. Disassembly was in the following order: drive coupling, clutch stop cross bar (with leather braking ring), pedals and pedal shaft. It is clear that a previous owner did not possess a 1 3/4" Whitworth spanner; the use of a hammer and cold chisel had caused significant damage to the retaining bolt. Next the sequence was spacer collar, retaining nut, stop, operating bridle c/w bearing giving access to the large serrated spring adjusting collar. A spanner to fit this was laser cut from 6 mm steel. The parts book makes no mention of a locking grub-screw for the spring adjuster; once this had been discovered (the hard way!) things came apart readily. Spring adjuster coming out. When I started dismantling, the engine was stuck with the grub screw at 6 o-clock. Adjuster free. Cautious removal with intermediate fasteners in position. Didn't want a loud Zebedee-like "Boing!" and the spring disappearing into the darkest recesses of the workshop. The large aluminium cover fits into a register in the flywheel rim. This was tight. Going round with a hammer and hardwood block caused a crack to open up between the cover and the flywheel. Thereafter a lot of patience and WD40 and the cover was persuaded to come off. The clutch cone and centre were slid off the crankcase revealing a brand new lining material which a little red warning label advised might contain Asbestos. This lining was about 8 mm thick and bonded to the cone. It was clear that the lining was too thick as the clutch cone protruded about 1/2" from the flywheel face. Indeed this took up much of the clearance in the aluminium cover such that there was scarcely any movement available to disengage the clutch. The clutch cone was sent to Bristol Friction Services who were able to remove the existing lining and replace it with a modern non-asbestos material. They then put the cone up in a lathe and ground the lining back to the original dimensions. Clutch cone with new friction lining Fully engaged in the flywheel just a little but proud, but plenty of room for de-clutching. I had considered a leather lining. The parts list suggests leather was used, however the pattern of rivet holes in the cone, which is a little over 17" diameter, shows there was only a single joint. This would have been a large piece of leather, suggesting a man-made material was originally fitted. By way of comparison, the clutch lining in my Albion-engined Barford and Perkins D4 roller is in three pieces. Leather-lined Albion clutch cone for comparison.
  8. Are you trying to just put N80's straight into an old "Low Block " 2-valve head 671 to upgrade horsepower?. I would think you will need to be running a 4- valve head, which is "high Block" with N80's and you would have to make sure you have the correct injector rack, as from the HV- series injectors, they have a different offset than N80's , and then there is consideration about the type of liner you are using, with the different configuration on air-vent holes, as to get the right air-fuel mixture, as you are dumping more fuel into the cylinders, and also what compression ratio are you using, is this matched to the N80. In other words are you doing a complete strip and rebuild?, To give you a rough idea, a 2-valve head has exposed fuel line ( 2 ) and the 4-valve head are cast within the side of the head, so not externally seen ,Cheers Andrew.
  9. Thanks very much Ron. Gary.
  10. Hi Ron yep really am over the moon with them. They really do look great love the 44' stamp on the battery case to with the age of the chassis. Just got the mag off totally wrong one looks like it's a 35' pre war msl1-10. Good thing is 98% seems to be wd so far 🙂 Apart from the mag an bars. shes definitely had plenty of work done judging from the amount of nice grease everywhere an the insides of the engines all looking good the more I'm working on her. hopefully once I get the new mag sorted an the bits for the bars I wont be to far away from getting her fired up which is a nice suprise. Attached some pictures of the levers an throttle that's on it grip does say Doherty 🙂 sure Rik did mention pressed levers on the later ones but I might not be remembering right. 20200222_172717-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr 20200222_175920-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr 20200222_175931-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr
  11. 14mm. I use Champion L82C or Bosch W7AC in my WD OHV engines. Quite cheap on line here:- https://www.gsparkplug.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8PyBRDMARIsAFo4wK0Zf0Mxu443YGfW86ZU-yG5BKsWp8-TUL2YXl72dBuS5bA5RKPlDuIaApw0EALw_wcB Ron Ron
  12. Are the standard spark plugs for my WD/CO 12mm or 14mm please?
  13. Evening, The steel tow cables and the D shackles turned up, I ordered 18mm diameter tow cables which are each rated at 4.1 tons. There seems to be a number of ways in which the cables were carried on the front of the tanks in period pictures, in fact there doesn't appear to be a standard to how many cables are carried at all. Some pictures show just a single cable, some have two cables, some appear to be about 18mm in diameter, whereas some look a lot smaller and there are even some pictures showing what appears to be some carrying tow ropes. I decided, in the end, not to add extra bands around the circumference of the hub but instead to machine a series of small grooves into the surface to help the polyurethane adhere. That's all folks, Jon
  14. This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. Pete
  15. I'm glad that your pleased with the handlebar and battery. The handlebar is copied from a NOS original and the battery is copied from originals that Henk and I provided. I'm guessing that your bike might have come with the 7/8" bar? Your twist-grip looks suspiciously like a hard to find Doherty, and so does your front brake lever. Although by the time of 7/8" bars, I wonder if they were fitted with the pressed steel levers (Perhaps Rik can confirm?) Ron
  16. Hi bud, i am not with the jeep at the moment, it is in my daughters garage whilst i make space, i can get additional pictures later.
  17. Is there casting numbers visible on passenger side of block?
  18. very nice.. chart holder under hood., decal on filter housing. looks like wiper arm linkage in the pile of stuff. Radio junction box I believe. Later Jeeps had them. Look at the back of the transmission hump. is there any brackets or plates there?
  19. Notice the red box next to the passenger seat has a pipe from to underneath the body it has lead washers, something to do with a radio?
  20. Ok guys its here, not to bad on the body a few repairs done and a few to do, very kruddy underneath it was kind of a rush to get it into the garage avoiding showers, cylinder head is post war but on the original block, some bits and bobs left in the tool wells and think some original OD visable, VIN432030 ENGINE NUMBER MB566495 REGD 04-03-1945 a few rushed pictures
  21. If I'm reading data plates correctly..... Serial 432030 DOD 4/3/45 I believe April 3/45. Could be original motor. Parts came in by rail car so they just grabbed which ever one came off first. 1945 MB should be ACM 2 body. look on toe board gusset on driver side. should be stamped on the side. https://g503.com/oldsite/serial-numbers/view.php?record_id=2006 Serial number 431759.with WD number 1945-04-03 Willys MB 430095 Barker 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431735 Tate 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431740 Sandhu 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431759 Braeger 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431867 Bennett Ascending Descending Ascending Descending Ascending Descending 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431973 Durtschi 1945-04-03 Willys MB 431999 Wilson 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432008 Fattig 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432088 Bennett 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432101 Landino 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432126 Hubert 1945-04-03 Willys MB 432126 Hubert These are all from the old G503 serial number datatbase. Sorry.. Got bored Did some digging. Also.. plate beside glove box.. Is there any holes behind it or is it just hiding where bubba hid his jukebox? Jason
  22. First few bits came today correct wd bend bars in 1" so I've gotta source a set of 1" bar clamps next 🙂 my chassis has 7/8" which was a late war change going with 1" an gotta source all the stuff to go on them next. Few pictures of my new battery box 🙂 Over the moon with the bits thanks to one of our members. Decided on SCC.2 now for the colour on her. 20200222_131302-04 by norton.rider, on Flickr 20200222_132718-04 by norton.rider, on Flickr 20200222_132834-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr
  23. With a bit of help from Google: Meanwhile, in September 1952 another tank squadron was raised. This was known as Nucleus Squadron and, based in Holsworthy, New South Wales, with the purpose of forming the basis of a second tank unit which was to be named the 2nd Armoured Regiment. In 1954 the regiment received it first Ferret MK 1 Scout Car, enabling the raising of Reconnaissance Troop. The following year 1st Armoured Regiment received the Saracen Armoured Personnel Carrier, and it was at this time that the intention to form another tank unit was abandoned, and Nucleus Squadron subsequently returned to the regiment as its third squadron, designated C Squadron.
  24. Sorted on the headgaskets. Has anyone used HVLP Spray guns? Just looking at different options compared to aerosols On another note who does everyone use for magneto's in the uk? Thanks in advance,
  25. New Tanks Plates added: Centurion Mark III - https://militarydataplates.com/centurion-mark-iii/ Centurion Mark V - https://militarydataplates.com/centurion-mark-iii/ Centaur Mark IV CS Seawolf - https://militarydataplates.com/centaur-mark-iv-cs-seawolf/ Churchill 75mm Turret plate: https://militarydataplates.com/churchill-turret-gun-plate/ Cavalier Lubrication Chart - https://militarydataplates.com/cavalier-lubrication-chart/
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